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Routes in Carney Springs Wall

De Grazia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Honeymooners P1 Variation, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honeymooners, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
To Air is Human T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1973 by John Annerino and Ben Lane
Page Views: 2,730 total, 21/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Feb 13, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

The crux is the start of the third pitch. The move can be protected with a small cam (e.g. blue alien). The route does wander a bit. The Phoenix Rock (Jim Waugh edition) guide book has a good photo and route description. Rock quality is ok.

Location

The route is on the left hand side of the wall. I will upload a picture of the wall and the route ASAP. The route wanders a bit, and some find route finding difficult. I have provided the route description (as found in Waugh) as a comment below. Take a look at the route photo, and read the description to avoid problems.

Please note. Someone has recently replaced the hardware on this climb. So, it is possible AND advisable to rap the route (take two ropes). It is possible to walk off the back side, but the going is rough and steep, and not fun.

Protection

Standard rack. Large cams are useful (P3 and P4) if you tend to be sketched on run-out 5.6-5.7 Trad.

Photos

roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.7
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.7
The walk-off really isn't that bad, just make sure to cut hard right (there is a faint use 'trail') so you don't end up in the wash. At 45min, probably faster than rapping, as well as safer. Kind of sucks lugging boots up though. May 28, 2008
mcarizona
Flag
mcarizona   Flag
Thanks you guys. What was I thinking looking for bigwall adventure OUTSIDe of AZ. Any other beta is appreciated, I'm going! Oct 15, 2007
Laurel Arndt
Phoenix
Laurel Arndt   Phoenix
As an added note, despite the age of this route, new hangers are at the top of the pitches and rapping off is now safer, however rope management is critical. Bring two ropes if you intend to rap Mar 6, 2007
Russ Davis
  5.7+
Russ Davis  
  5.7+
I completely agree with the "wandering route" synopsis of the climb. It's easy to find yourself off route on this climb. I was part of the group that replaced the anchors on this one, so you'll know you're going the right way when you find yourself clipped into nice, new anchors! Overall, this is a fun multi-pitch climb on decent rock. Feb 26, 2007
(From Waugh 1987) Look for the low-angled slabs just left and below the lighter-colored rock on the wall.

P1- "Climb the bulge veering left onto enjoyable friction climbing that leads to a ledge (about 45 ft). Climb 25 ft veering left over the next bulge to a bolt. From here work up face to the long ledge at the top of the friction slabs (2 belay bolts)"; NOTE- new hangers and rap rings here.

P2- "A tree will be noted above. Climb up 120-130 feet towards the tree to a ledge (belay bolt)"; NOTE- new hangers here too.

P3-"Climb the chute on right (5.7), then continue up easier ground to underneath a large block. Clear the block to the prominent tree above. Now go straight up the obvious chute, then continue up slightly left until possible to traverse right to a large ledge. Walk right to a left, diagonaling (sic) crack, then climb 30 ft to belay (2 bolts)"; NOTE rope drag makes the last 30 feet difficult. One can place gear at the far right end of the ledge to bring up your second. Then a short pitch to get to the belay for the start of P4.

P4-"Climb the muddy outcrop above for 10 ft, then continue for 70 ft up a chute past dubious fixed piton to a ledge with a dead tree and a saguaro (bolt and fixed piton)"; Note: the chute is more like an off-width/chimney. New rap rings and one new bolt and hanger.

P5-"Continue up the obvious crack for 20 ft where easier climbing leads to the top". Note: new rap rings on top too. Feb 13, 2007