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Routes in 1. The West End

Easy Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gray Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
King's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Missionary's Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Pony Express T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Toe, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tongue-Right Side, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unnamed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Western Union T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Windy Slabs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 920 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: D. Vockeroth and B. Greenwood May 1964
Page Views: 96 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brad Warne on Feb 12, 2007
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

Missionary's Crack is a great route with sustained climbing through out. The crux is quite demanding but fairly short and well protected. Over time the crux has become harder due to the loss of a key hold, not to down play the very impressive lead by Vockeroth back in 1964! The route climbs generally good rock except the third pitch which negotiates its way through some precariously perched blocks. A standard rack with some long slings is needed.

Start: Climb the first pitch of Unnamed, belaying at the base of the large crack.

P1: Climb up a few feet then traverse right passing a piton to a left facing corner/crack. Climb the steep corner/crack to a ledge on the right with two pins. 5.8, 30m

P2: Move left to a piton and then climb the steep shattered face above. When the climbing eases head up and left past two pins to a pin belay. 5.8,25m

P3: Climb the broken ground, and gain a ramp leading left towards a corner. Climb the corner, being careful not to disturb the blocks. Belay on a ledge on the left with a pin and bolt. 5.7, 35m

P4: Move right and climb a groove until a step back left brings you to below a large chockstone. Strenuous climbing over the chockstone brings you to a ledge and a pinnacle. Walk behind the pinnacle and climb the crack to a ledge below a steeper crack. Belay off gear at the ledge. 5.8,45m

P5: Climb a steep crack passing an overhang on the right. Sustained climbing will bring you to a ledge with a bolt and chockstone for a belay. 5.8, 35m

P6: The crux is right off the belay. Make a few face moves into the crack then continue up on strenuous jams or laybacking until the crack widens and becomes more awkward. Sustained climbing past a piton brings you to a ramp trending up and left to a ledge and a gear belay. 5.10a, 45m

P7: From the belay move down and left until you reach a gully. cross the gully and climb the left leaning corner to the top. 5.6, 30m

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