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Routes in 1. The West End

Easy Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gray Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
King's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Missionary's Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Pony Express T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Toe, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tongue-Right Side, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unnamed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Western Union T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Windy Slabs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 850 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: J. Martin and L. Howard
Page Views: 154 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brad Warne on Feb 12, 2007
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

Gray Goose climbs grey rock to the right of Kings Chimney. Its a good route for beginners looking to push the grade a little as there are only a few moves of 5.7. All belays are bolted except one in Kings Chimney, which requires gear. A standard rack will do.

Start as for "Easy Street"

P1: Climb the first pitch of "Easy Street" to a belay on a ledge with two bolts. 5.6, 25m

P2: Move left a few meters to the base of a shallow corner and a pin. Climb the corner to a scree ledge and the base of a crack. Climb the crack past two pins and belay on a ledge with two bolts. 5.7, 40m

P3: Move up and right to the base of a large crack (Unnamed) and two pitons. From the pins climb a slab up and left past a bolt to a right facing corner. Climb the corner and continue up and left past a block which you pass on the right side to a ledge belay and two bolts. 5.6, 40m

P4: Climb the slab up and left through discontinuous grooves past two pins. The grooves will eventually lead you into "Kings Chimney" where you can make a belay off gear. 5.6, 45m

P5: Climb "Kings Chimney" past a steep section to where two options present themselves. Either continue up the chimney to where it ends with a four bolt belay or, climb shattered rock up and left out of the chimney to a ledge and the same belay. The second option is a little more run-out. 5.5, 30m

P6: From the belay traverse left past a pin and further a two bolt belay for "Direct Mail". Climb up and left past a steep bulge and continue traversing passing four pitons. Climb down and left past another pin to the large ledge (BBQ Ledge) and a two bolt belay. 5.5, 25m

P7: Finish as per one of the "West End Finishes".

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