Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Under the Milky Way

5.11d, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 287 votes
FA: Brian Kelleher 1991
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Summersville (G… > Summersville La… > Long Wall

Description

Under the Milky Way takes the blunt arete that marks the left end of the Long Wall. Perform a bouldery move to get started (nice to have a good spotter or stick clip), then continue up sustained and technical moves to a crux high on the route. Bolted anchor.

Protection

7 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo: Tyler Casey
[Hide Photo] Photo: Tyler Casey
Roman on Under the Milky Way | Photo by @crimp_scampi
[Hide Photo] Roman on Under the Milky Way | Photo by @crimp_scampi
Thin stuff.<br> Photo: Greg Martin
[Hide Photo] Thin stuff. Photo: Greg Martin
Falling off near the top of this AMAZING pitch.
[Hide Photo] Falling off near the top of this AMAZING pitch.
Clipping.<br> Photo: Greg Martin
[Hide Photo] Clipping. Photo: Greg Martin
A striking arete with cool holds and good movement
[Hide Photo] A striking arete with cool holds and good movement
Taylor Gum near the top of Under the Milky Way.
[Hide Photo] Taylor Gum near the top of Under the Milky Way.
Top part had some reachy moves (I'm 5'6")
[Hide Photo] Top part had some reachy moves (I'm 5'6")
Under the Milkyway by @drawingsfordirtbags
[Hide Photo] Under the Milkyway by @drawingsfordirtbags
Under the Milky Way 11d Onsight- Elliot Gaunt
[Hide Photo] Under the Milky Way 11d Onsight- Elliot Gaunt
Clipping the chains for my Onsight
[Hide Photo] Clipping the chains for my Onsight
Under the Milky Way (5.11d) 9/2020
[Hide Photo] Under the Milky Way (5.11d) 9/2020

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew G
Pittsburgh, PA
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Amazing line. Don't forget to soak in the views from the top... assuming you can get past the opening boulder problem. After that, the route is delicate and techy, but it's all there. Jul 13, 2015
Francois Cote
Fredericton, NB
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Amazing sustained route with beautiful movement the whole way up the arête. Gets my vote for best of its grade anywhere!! May 12, 2019
Alex Morres
Northern Virginia
 
[Hide Comment] First-person footage is available here: youtu.be/rh0lzr06NW0. Dec 29, 2019
Yoav Pinto
[Hide Comment] As of 4/2/23 the last bolt before the anchor is spinning freely. Reported to NRAC.

The best looking, best climbing arete I've ever experienced! Got overconfident after flashing the start before being thoroughly shut down by the whole rest of the climb. Will definitely be returning to try and send this one under the stars! Apr 4, 2023