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Satisfaction Guaranteed

5.11a/b, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 471 votes
FA: Doug Cosby, Ken McLean 1991
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Summersville (G… > Summersville La… > Satisfaction Wall

Description

Pull the low roof on positive holds and then trend up the slightly slabby face via technical movement to a rest at two-thirds height. Step left to a corner and rail below the roof. Monkey out the roof and trend up the slightly overhanging headwall to a bolted anchor. Classic!

Location

After passing the Long Wall, the best of the next group of climbs (the Lichen Wall) is Satisfaction Guaranteed, an obvious face climb leading up to a large roof.

Protection

8 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Satisfaction Was Guaranteed
[Hide Photo] Satisfaction Was Guaranteed
Paul with an unnecessary hang at the roof
[Hide Photo] Paul with an unnecessary hang at the roof
one fun climb
[Hide Photo] one fun climb
Jakub on Satisfaction Guaranteed (5.11a) 11/2007
[Hide Photo] Jakub on Satisfaction Guaranteed (5.11a) 11/2007
Satisfaction Guaranteed (5.11a)
[Hide Photo] Satisfaction Guaranteed (5.11a)
Satisfaction Guaranteed (no beta). Etsy: DrawingsForDirtbags
[Hide Photo] Satisfaction Guaranteed (no beta). Etsy: DrawingsForDirtbags
The start
[Hide Photo] The start
Post roof pull on Satisfaction Guaranteed.
[Hide Photo] Post roof pull on Satisfaction Guaranteed.
Mike on Satisfaction Guaranteed
[Hide Photo] Mike on Satisfaction Guaranteed
The roof
[Hide Photo] The roof

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Flury
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] This route has EVERYTHING! AWESOME ROUTE!
In order of appearance: Burly boulder-problem start (the power-crux, which I botched), a little bit of thin crack with lie-backs & side-pulls, thin/reachy/balancy face-climbing requiring precise foot-work (technical crux), an awesome roof-pull & short jug-haul (pump-crux), and finally... slopers & pinches!
CAUTION: This route is NOT for somebody looking to break into the 5.11 grade for the first time. Not because the route is exceptionally dangerous compared to other 5.11s (because it’s not), but because you have to be equally proficient at ALL the afore mentioned climbing styles to be able to even hang-dog your way all the way to the anchor. Otherwise, make sure you bring a stronger climber with you so you don’t end up leaving gear behind if you are forced to bail. Mar 25, 2019
JoeNY
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] This is a great route but you can get even more satisfaction if you do the sit start from inside the cave. It has a nice, short bouldering sequence with heel hook, toe hook, undercling sloper and gaston. This may bump the grade up from 11a to 11c and it makes the move pulling the low roof a lot harder. Aug 18, 2020
Andre Bruchez
Philadelphia, PA
 
[Hide Comment] Lovely route. Love the varied climbing. Finding rests were key for my flash send. Also, not mentioned anywhere else but there was a hold after the boulder problem that was extremely memorable... mmm so goood. Jun 24, 2021
EJ Flynnstones
Boston, MA
[Hide Comment] First bolt over the roof spins and has a significant angle (10 degrees or so) between the bolt and the hanger… very weird Jul 15, 2024