Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan Sperlock, 1989
Page Views: 2,939 total · 20/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the slightly runout but lower angle slab and clip the first bolt. After you clip the first bolt it is very well protected. The crux is just past the first bolt (or maybe its the second) where one must do some slabby moves up to the next bolt. Attain the ledge and then go right and follow the bolted arete/face up to the chains. It is a really good idea to bring some medium to small pro for the moves getting off of the ledge to the first bolt on the upper face. Also, gear is recommended further up the climb as well.

Location

This route starts climbers right of prepare for soaring seagulls (5.10d). It is on the north side of elephant rock. you will see two lines of bolts leading to a large ledge this is the rightmost line, whereas the left line of bolts is for prepare for soaring seagulls. Descent is via a 60 meter rope. Simply lower off of the chains at the top of the climb.

Protection

Small to medium gear (takes nuts very well) nothing bigger than #2 camalot. Chain anchors at the top. Bolts are a little spaced near the top of the climb-gear recommended.

Photos

Brice W
  5.10a
Brice W  
  5.10a
Gear is definitely nice to have for getting off the ledge, but I don't remember wanting any more for the top - maybe I was just getting used to the COR runouts at that point! Fun route. Sep 8, 2008
Fat Paul
Central, NJ
 
Fat Paul   Central, NJ
 
Substituted slabby start of Prepare for Soaring Seagulls for extra value. Bring gear to protect moving off ledge to first bolt on arete. Jun 12, 2009
After many trips to COR and many outings on Elephant Rock, I finally got on this route--to my immense enjoyment. Small gear (green Alien, wired stopper) protected the first moves off the ledge. I agree with the other posts that I didn't need gear after leaving the ledge--and I tend to place more gear than most to feel safe. Jun 29, 2010
Russell Fogle
Boise, ID
  5.10b/c
Russell Fogle   Boise, ID
  5.10b/c
Only need a piece or two getting off the ledge. Upper part of this route is worth the hard crappy lower slab. Oct 19, 2013
Replaced original hardware in 2018 with 1/2" SS in cooperation with the NPS, Climbing Resource Advisory Group (CRAG) and the ASCA. Tools provided by The Access Fund, all hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org Apr 2, 2018
Isaac
Portland
  5.10b
Isaac   Portland
  5.10b
Slab section was difficult, but crux is definitely after 1st bolt. Probably a bit easier for taller climbers. Fun route! Sep 17, 2018