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Routes in The Old Zoo

Animal Husbandry S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Armadillo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Aviary S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannonball S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edgehog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Geezers Go Sport S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hippocrite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jail Bird S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lynx Jinx S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey in the Middle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On Beyond Zebra! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Brick Shy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Put Me In The Zoo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scar Tissue S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skin The Cat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoo Keeper S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: John Bronaugh & Alex Yeakley, 1999
Page Views: 715 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 10, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first of the climbs encountered on the left side of the crag. These are more characterized by the steeper climbing and pockets. Further right, the routes you have now passed are more consistently thin edges on clean faces.
Start up the right line of bolts from the boulder passing a roof to follow the line to the anchors.

On a very early ascent of this line, I scribbled the following note in my guidebook:
"Choss-pile, Wet too! 10 bolts, 10' right of One Brick Shy, probably 11a."
But I was there on a rainy week. Ellington likes it in his book enough for 3 stars, so maybe it cleaned up and is not always wet.

Location

Approach past the right side climbs,passing along roof above and arrive at a pair of bolted lines starting just off of a boulder at the base of the wall. The right-most of the pair is "Skin The Cat, 11a" The left one is "One Brick Shy, 10c."

Protection

10 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos

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RPariser  
 
ONSIGHT SPOILER
Super fun climbing on a looong route with a surprise crack at the end! This was a bit sandy for the first three bolts, but all of the rock is good. You may have to get creative with some of them, but once you find the right way to hold them almost all of the holds range from "amazing" to "pretty good," if not better. While the starting holds are pretty good and you're going to something great, you do have to throw a heel and need to fully commit to the start, so I'd definitely suggest a stick clip! Bad consequences if you blow it! May 29, 2015
Socka
Bloomington, IN
 
Socka   Bloomington, IN
 
The route is neat, someone might find it a bit dirty in the top part, but nothing serious. The holds in the intro crux (roof) are big and solid, so no need of clip-stick, but be aware of the fact that once you start the climb you can not go back. Oct 18, 2010