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Routes in Purple Valley

5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
A Way of Life S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Burden of Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain One Eye S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coffee Talk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Come In Your Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Electric Cowboy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flaring Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunt T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hot Licks and Rhetoric T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Into the Purple Valley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Love Shack, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pebbly Poo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pleasant Surprise T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shish-kebab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Social Butterfly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Bronaugh, Stacy Temple, 1992
Page Views: 1,881 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

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A good route and probably one of the easier 11b's in the gorge, as it is not very sustained. Climb up a few bolts on a face, go left under a small roof to gain the arete, and fire the crux section on the arete to go to the top.


This route is toward the far left and of the main Purple Valley amphitheatre and is on a right-facing arete. It is the left-most sport route on the wall, just left of the small but deep alcove capped by an imposing roof and Fist Crack known as "Burden Of Dreams."


7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Andrew R.
Linden, VA
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
Really fun route. Most of the climbing is not 11.b but the variety of moves flow really nicely. Getting out on the arete and over the "bull" is the crux and are 11.b movements. Tons of fun Dec 1, 2009
BrandonB Bagley
Cincinnati, OH
BrandonB Bagley   Cincinnati, OH
Great feature to climb. Looks really nice from the ground and the holds are all there. Apr 16, 2012

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