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Critter Crack

5.6, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 229 votes
FA: unknown
W Virginia > Seneca Rocks > S Peak - W Face > S Peak W Face (Main A…

Description

Climb the hand and finger crack 2 ft right of the Le Gourmet Chimney. Half-way up move a couple feet across a ledge and follow the crack system on your right

Location

Highest up and farthest north on the 4th class ledges Old Man's Traverse follows.

Protection

Handsize and smaller gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Coming up critter crack. Photo taken by Grant from Blue Ridge Mountain Guides
[Hide Photo] Coming up critter crack. Photo taken by Grant from Blue Ridge Mountain Guides
Approaching the top of Critter Crack.  What a little 1 pitch hidden gem.  Climbing La Gourmet> Front C> Critter Crack seems to be the move.  Shouts out to former internet stranger Adam for a super fun weekend at Seneca. Photo Cred Adam Sch
[Hide Photo] Approaching the top of Critter Crack. What a little 1 pitch hidden gem. Climbing La Gourmet> Front C> Critter Crack seems to be the move. Shouts out to former internet stranger Adam for a super…
Andrew on Critter Crack!
[Hide Photo] Andrew on Critter Crack!
Tanya Chupa removing the final peace of pro on Critter Crack (5.6). The climbing party with Chupa climbed the first two pitches of Prune (5.7), then moved over to finish up on Critter Crack.
[Hide Photo] Tanya Chupa removing the final peace of pro on Critter Crack (5.6). The climbing party with Chupa climbed the first two pitches of Prune (5.7), then moved over to finish up on Critter Crack.
Jams the whole way. Such a good pitch
[Hide Photo] Jams the whole way. Such a good pitch
Upper section of Critter Crack
[Hide Photo] Upper section of Critter Crack
Zack crushing it on Critter Crack
[Hide Photo] Zack crushing it on Critter Crack
Heading up critter crack on a beautiful day.
[Hide Photo] Heading up critter crack on a beautiful day.
Mike topping out on Critter.
[Hide Photo] Mike topping out on Critter.
Mike cleaning up Critter Crack.
[Hide Photo] Mike cleaning up Critter Crack.
Nick on Critter Crack.
[Hide Photo] Nick on Critter Crack.
Dave Ruel climbing Critter Crack
[Hide Photo] Dave Ruel climbing Critter Crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is perhaps the most strenuous 5.6 I know of. Sustained, excellent rock quality, good pro. I'll do it again. Apr 11, 2010
cjon3s
Sterling, VA
 
[Hide Comment] Great protection, solid rock and a killer view. A perfect intro to crack climbing. Apr 25, 2013
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Great pro, no awkward moves, just fantastic hand jams with some face holds. Topped out on the south peak summit via Le Gourmet, Front C, then Critter Crack. I would definitely recommend it. Apr 15, 2015
minquatrails
Lancaster PA
 
[Hide Comment] For those looking for a way to get to the summit that don't like run-outs and leading 5.7 scares them - Do what Vince suggested. Even better - Take Candy Corner (5.5G)to Skyline Traverse (5.3?G) & skip the approach. Awesome day. Oct 27, 2015
Conway Yao
Oakland, CA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Fantastic 70 feet of crack climbing! Was pumped by halfway up. Bring large cams. No obvious boulders to sling at the top for an anchor, so have to make one out of nuts/cams/etc. Easy 6 ft. downclimb to the north to access the East face summit ledge and its rappel options. Apr 8, 2019
Derek Ehrnschwender
Cambridge, MA
[Hide Comment] To follow up on the above comment, I did not feel any need for large cams on this route. I had single cams to 3" with doubles in the .4 and .5 sizes and was able to sew it up. Didn't use the 2 until the top out move and didn't even place the 3. A second #1 or .75 might have been nice. Amazing route. Nov 11, 2019