PRINT: Rock Climb Dean's List, Red Rocks

Dean's List

5.11 PG13, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
FA: Wendell Broussard, Paul Van Betten, R. Harrison, Druce Finlay 1990
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (07) Willow Spring > Children's Crag

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Access Issue: Petroglyph route closures: Details

Due to their proximity to petroglyphs, 22 Minutes 'til Closing and Peaches are closed.

Description

One of the classic friction routes in Red Rocks. Right up there with Smears for Fears and Rojo. Bring a couple of small cams to protect the opening moves to the first bolt. If you're under 5'10" clipping the first bolt will be hard and scary. Traverse left a bit then make hard moves to the slopy ledge. Rest the feet here you're going to need it. The next section traverses back right a bit and up on very thin slab. A couple of very shallow solution pockets will hopefully get you past the crux without taking the long whip.

Holds have broken off making the grade a bit harder than 5.11

Location

The right hand route.

Protection

3 bolts and a couple of small cams.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cunning Linguist

This route is pretty ridiculous. Water comes down the thing, holds break and get smaller, next thing you know, it's traverse city, while solidly runout. Falling off would be a really bad idea at some spots.

That said, pretty memorable. Not the best rock in RR, but a challenge without doubt! Jan 19, 2012

W L
NEVADASTAN

5.11 R

Hard! And like Killis said, looks like falling off would be a bad idea. VERY good route, but also quite difficult. May 15, 2013

Josh Janes

5.11 PG13

This hardware on this route has been replaced. If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org. Apr 2, 2018

Maison DesChamps
Hartland, MI

I guess holds have since broken off, if I were to give this climb a grad now I would say at least 12a PG13 I think it should just changed on mountain project too Dec 20, 2019

W L
NEVADASTAN

5.11 R

Maison - How tall are you? I am short (5'7) and found the initial moves past the first bolt to be extremely difficult and more reasonable for the grade after that. Josh is taller than I am by a bit, although not super tall (5'11? 6'1?) and a much better climber than I am. With that being said, I think that this thing felt to be very height dependent in my opinion. As always, your mileage may vary.... Dec 23, 2019

Josh Janes

5.11 PG13

At 5’10” I can only dream of having 6’1” reach, but I’m glad I seem larger than life to you Weston! I do remember some trick beta at the crux: moving slightly left, then up and back right. And in general this style of climbing is quite passé and always seems to feel harder compared to more popular climbs. Dec 23, 2019