PRINT: Rock Climb Sumo Greatness, Red Rocks

Sumo Greatness

5.9+ R, Trad,

Avg: 2.4 from 30 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (07) Willow Spring > Children's Crag

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Access Issue: Petroglyph route closures: Details

Due to their proximity to petroglyphs, 22 Minutes 'til Closing and Peaches are closed.

Description

This little gem is about 100' long and has a grand total of 3 bolts. A fall before clipping the second bolt will likely result in injuries. A fall above the 3rd has resulted in a broken nose for one local climber.

Location

The leftmost route.

Protection

3 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sumo Greatness - above the bulge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Graham

5.9+ R

Slabba dabba must-do! Only by top-rope, though, unless you want to add some protection points between the current bolt placements by hanging biners on long draws from the existing bolts that create interim protection points. Even if you're awesome at slab climbing, you'll find that the slab here is covered in a coating of dusty sand that makes it very, very slippery. Without extra protection, a slip resulting in an injury is pretty likely. I thought the coating of sand on this route made it tougher than the 5.10a water streak slab climb at the Tuna & Chips wall. Mar 1, 2009

Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine

I once caught a guy who fell just before the second clip. He just barely touched the ground before the rope caught him. He was spooked but not hurt. I foolishly then went up and led the thing. This was in 1987 I believe. A fun and exciting little climb. Jun 26, 2009

Danny Meyers
Las Vegas, NV

5.9+ R

This route originally had two bolts as well as a fixed Knife Blade placed on the lead by the FA party for pro. My climbing partner did take a fall above the second bolt (but, to her defense, she hadn't climbed for about six months previous) and did break her nose. The fixed knife blade before the first bolt has been removed, but you might be able to place a small RP in that same placement. If you think you've finished the route once you've reached the two bolt anchor, keep in mind that it didn't exist for many years after the route was done (and repeated by many). After clipping the second bolt, the tree on the ledge above the route was the original finish. The crux seems to be about ten or twelve feet above the second bolt.... Sep 26, 2009

sqwirll
Las Vegas

The first bolt on this is sticking about a 1/2" out of the rock. Jun 26, 2010

ntableman
Hoboken, NJ/New Platz, NY

We tried this route today and it is not marked as R in the guidebook and as noted should be. The available pro before the first bolt would likely result in ground fall if not very close. The move from bolt 1 to 2 would likely result in hitting the bulge below the first bolt. All-in-all, I would say save your time for another route! Nov 24, 2012

Clint Walker ATX
Austin, TX

5.10a PG13

Heady little climb. Moves are very delicate. A true slab climb. Apr 8, 2013

W L
NEVADASTAN

5.9+ R

TR Soloed this today....flake/hold at one of the bolts, first one perhaps, feels like it's gonna go. Would be quite the heady lead. Awesome Tuolumne training! Apr 27, 2013

Bolter Bot

This route has new bolts. Jul 5, 2017

BigB
Red Rock, NV

^^^^??? Sep 28, 2017

Shane Brown

He's talking about replacing bolts....not new/additional. Sep 29, 2017

W L
NEVADASTAN

5.9+ R

Well, the aforementioned flake has in fact broken - as have significant "holds" on the upper wall of this following what used to be the crux. Upper bits are quite a bit harder now from what I could tell. Holds were broken prior to me arriving 5 days after the rain yesterday. Mar 18, 2019

Harris Kashtan

5.10- R

Very fun slab climb on TR. There was evidence that numerous holds had broken off while climbing this one with others being very fragile. I would not recommend a lead and it is probably climbing at .10- now. Apr 27, 2023

Matthew Giragosian

5.10- R

Finished this onsight, and in hindsight, very happy to have climbed this, but would have questioned it had I read the comments. Fitting to the old school 5.9 mantra, and would guess holds were more limited than in past. Flake to get past the 1st bolt should not be pulled on, but used for feet. Slim and grim, but a win! Nov 14, 2023