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Routes in Tenacious Calculus Spire

Stem Cell Research T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tenacious Calculus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: D. Davis, S. Mish, T. Toula 1986
Page Views: 1,607 total · 12/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Feb 7, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

One of the best pitches I've climbed in Sedona, with a 15 minute mostly level approach. Great to do if you don't have much time.

Splitter thin hands and fingers for 100 ft. It starts with a commiting traverse to get into the crack and it doesn't give up until you're on the top. Very well protected most of the way, but it's tricky to protect the start. Personally I thought the green alien under the knocker block was good for a fall, but I was glad not to test it. Some loose rock, but it just adds to the flavor.

Rap off a slung block on the summit with 1 60m rope.

Location

Park at the Margs Draw parking and follow the trail out of the parking lot. At the 4-way intersection with the sign, go left on the main trail (tward Schnebley Hill road). Look for the 100 ft. spire/cluster of rocks below Snoopy on the right. The trail will cross a fairly large wash which passes under the spire on the right. Follow this wash to the base of the spire, then scramble around to the north face and the obvious splitter crack.

Protection

1 blue Alien, 1 green Alien (for start), 2 yellow Alien,
4-5 #0.5 Camalots, 4-5 #0.75 Camalots, 3 #1 Camalots.
Nuts optional.
Nothing bigger than #1 Camalot.

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Did this climb a couple weeks ago. Super classic! However I noticed a discrepancy. Looking at Kole's 2007 photo, it seems there is now a small chunk of stone missing from the start. Was this the "moving block"? Anyhow, that void currently takes a bomber #4 camalot (#2 or #3 could probably work too) and the move is quite tame. Feb 8, 2018
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Sedona Classic! One of the top single pitches in Sedona.
Silly easy access, good (for Sedona) rock quality, enough hard moves to make it worthy!
The rack I used:
Red C3 at the start, dont be too alarmed by the moving block...
1-2 .3s
1-2 .4s
4-5 .5s
4-5 .75s
2-3 #1s
I thought it was a little difficult for the minus (-) but again this is Sedona and you have to earn it...
Get out and climb this thing, you will not be disappointed! Nov 16, 2011

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