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Shagging the Doctor

5.10, Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 5 votes
FA: Bloom/Cosentino
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Coffeepot Rock… > Summit Block Rock

Description

This is an OK route with a spectacular summit.
4 pitches
Double rope rapel

P1- Located 2 crack systems to the right of Dr. Rubo's, climb up to a small belay ledge with bolt. Crux is just below the ledge. 5.10 but awkward.

P2- Climb up adn left under roof. Fixed black #4.5 in crack around the roof. Bolt at belay.

P3- Climb up to the base of the block. Belay at tree.

P4- This is the last pitch of Dr. Rubo's. Scramble to the north side of the block, and step up. Bolts at top.

Descent- double 60m rapel off bolts to saddle.

Protection

Standard rack
3...1"-3"
2...3"-4"
Fixed cam on Pitch 2
Rap chains at top.

Location

Park at the end of Soldier's Pass road, and hike to Summit Block Rock, West of Coffee Pot Rock

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bill on first Pitch
[Hide Photo] Bill on first Pitch
Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
Following P1
[Hide Photo] Following P1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Fisher
Sedona, AZ
[Hide Comment] The gear is no longer fixed on p2 May 1, 2009
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome route by Sedona standards! Sustained 1st pitch at 5.10 thin hands. A little crumbly at the start until you reach the crack and then high quality. Could feel harder than straight 5.10 if you're not used to full on (awkward) crack climbing. 3 star 1st pitch for me.

2nd pitch is nearly as good, just totally different. From thin hands on p.1 to big hands/fist on p.2. Very airy step around end of roof! The next part would be full on O/W if not for the continual feet that appear whenever needed. 9+/10-

1 each TCUs, doubles 1" to 4" (.5 Camalot to #4 Camalot), small selection of nuts
Single bolt belays on p. 1 & 2 easily backed up with gear.

One rope, 2 raps now (1st one 98 ft). Also, approach listed is wrong. Do not park at Soldiers Pass! Sugarloaf trailhead is the place now. Dec 11, 2016