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Routes in Three Amigos

3 Amigos, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Burcham/Tatum
Page Views: 1,715 total, 13/month
Shared By: Justin Gallen on Feb 7, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This route is an all time classic in the making!
Loose on the 1st pitch, but killer on 2 and 3. Beautiful summit views! Check out the Native American ruins at the bottom of the Rappel, but don't disturb them in any way please!

P1- Scramble up chimney and belay on ledge at right.
Awkward move up crack, belay below overhang on choss pile. belay takes .5-2"

P2- Follow crack on overhang on right. Optional belay at the bottom of beautiful 30-40 Ft chimney.
Belay on lower summit takes medium cams.

P3- Walk away from the belay to the step across move. Pocket up high may ease your jitters and keeps the route at 5.9. Belay from tree.


Descent- Scramble down from summit to hidden rap anchors. One 60m rope will get you to the ground.

Location

This route is tricky to find, and the mileage might not be flawless!
Hike up Boynton Canyon for about 1.5 miles. Turn off main trail where wash splits, follow the right wash. Hike up wash for 10 minutes until you see a group of three spires to the right. The 3 Amigos route is on the Northwest side following the crack system between the tallest and middle towers.
An obvious landmark is the gigantic balanced boulder spire.

Protection

Standard Rack.
pro to #4, and a #6 could be useful.
No bolts.
Rap Anchors.

Photos

Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
  5.9
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
  5.9
Yeah, awesome little Sedona climb! Long approach by some standards (1 hr), but easy as they get. Nearly all on Boynton Canyon trail, 10 minutes or less in easy wash. Great fun chimney, and exciting airy two-move finish! Some loose down low, but overall pretty good rock (It's Sedona!). Sep 20, 2016
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Just did this over Christmas, and wanted to say that I was very glad to have an old #5 camelot. It was worth its weight.

Whole different canyon than Tip Toe, but just as good a route I'd say. For a short route you feel like you've done quite a bit of climbing by the time you're on the top. Jan 5, 2009
This looks very similar to tip toe thru tulips, is it a diff. route up the same formation? Pretty cool if this is a diff. 3 spire formation with ruins next to it. Mar 6, 2008
Chris Tatum
Flagstaff, AZ
Chris Tatum   Flagstaff, AZ
It's a pretty good little spire but I wouldn't give it 4 stars... more around 2 or 3. Definitely worth the hike though. Check out the fun 5.10 TR where the rap is. A little dirty. Enjoy. Feb 13, 2007