PRINT: Rock Climb Bubbas In Bondage, Smith Rock

Bubbas In Bondage

5.4 A2, Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: Jim Anglin 1983
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

An easier variation start to the original pinic lunch wall route. Very Steep!

P1 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11c? - Retro Bolted into a sport route this pitch is now MUCH easier once A3+ and very heads up, now it can go free semi easily. Follow bolts to a clean low angle diheadral. Move up diheadral on gear make a short free move to bomber belay.
P2 - A2 - Mostly all original bolts with the occasional sawed off pin placement. Very steep. Ends at belay 2 on original Picnic Lunch Wall route.

P3-P5 Follow original Picnic Lunch Wall route to the top.

Location

To the right if the orignal route. Start atop blocks below massive routes.

Protection

Same as Picnic Lunch Wall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cody Peterson on P2 of Bubbas In Bondage

Cody Peterson on P1 of Bubbas In Bondage

Bubbas In Bondage pitch 2.

Cody Peterson on P2 of Bubbas In Bondage

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ranger Matt
Yosemite NP

Bolts on 1st pitch very reachy if aiding this. I'm 6'4'' and I had trouble reaching.
1 60 barely raps off the 1st anchor.
Good pitch to practice aiding. Bring a mini cheat stick if you are short. Dec 16, 2013

Past User

Pitch 1 goes free at 11d. 7 bolts or so to a gear protected corner ( corner is 5.10). Bring nuts and small cams up to finger size. Oct 20, 2015

Kevin Piarulli
Redmond, OR

One of the few sub-12 routes I have found in the area that stays dry in a light rain, this is very much worth a go. Pulling the roof is just the beginning, the slab above is sustained and interesting moves. Upper dihedral is much easier, fun and more exposed than it appears from the ground. Used small offset nuts and a red C3, not much else.

The final bolt before the dihedral might be a tough clip for anyone not able to reach it from the good foot ledge (under 6'??) a long stiffened draw or one of those Kong Frogs might do the trick. Mar 20, 2016