Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten
Page Views: 72 total · 0/month
Shared By: Gary Savage on Feb 2, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This one deserves a PG or R rating. The first bolt is about 30' up and the only gear up to that point is a #1 HB and a .5 Camalot in a shallow flared crack. The climbing through this section is delicate and sustained. I'm not real confident that either one of the gear placements would hold a fall. If you make it to the first bolt your safe and can now enjoy the sustained and very pumpy overhanging face to the top. If the gear was better on the bottom half this would be a classic comparable to Saved by Zero.

Location

Just to the right of Saved by Zero.

Protection

#1 HB, .5 Camalot, 3 bolts and maybe a couple of small cams for the top slabs. #.5, .2 or .3 & #2 camalots for the anchor.

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ChugachMan
  5.11+ PG13
ChugachMan  
  5.11+ PG13
Good route, though a little hairy at the bottom where there's no real pro to speak of (I think I got a poor nut placement and a blue? alien in before the first bolt) - though quite a fun route in the end. The book rates the climb as a 5.12a, but I think it fits better in the 5.11 range. It definately is a little pumpy towards the top, but is quite the fun line and a beautiful climb. Also, just FYI, the first bolt is starting to lose a little of the sandstone around it, though I expect it to still be good for some time. Apr 3, 2007