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Routes in Fixx Cliff

Bindle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cocaine Hotline T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eight Ball T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Base T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Geezer, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
One Thing Leads to Another T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Outside the Envelope T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Quail's Gamble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Reach the Beach T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Skies T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Running T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saved by Zero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skag, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snow Blind T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stand or Fall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Whiff, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten
Page Views: 67 total · 0/month
Shared By: Gary Savage on Feb 2, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This one deserves a PG or R rating. The first bolt is about 30' up and the only gear up to that point is a #1 HB and a .5 Camalot in a shallow flared crack. The climbing through this section is delicate and sustained. I'm not real confident that either one of the gear placements would hold a fall. If you make it to the first bolt your safe and can now enjoy the sustained and very pumpy overhanging face to the top. If the gear was better on the bottom half this would be a classic comparable to Saved by Zero.


Just to the right of Saved by Zero.


#1 HB, .5 Camalot, 3 bolts and maybe a couple of small cams for the top slabs. #.5, .2 or .3 & #2 camalots for the anchor.


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  5.11+ PG13
  5.11+ PG13
Good route, though a little hairy at the bottom where there's no real pro to speak of (I think I got a poor nut placement and a blue? alien in before the first bolt) - though quite a fun route in the end. The book rates the climb as a 5.12a, but I think it fits better in the 5.11 range. It definately is a little pumpy towards the top, but is quite the fun line and a beautiful climb. Also, just FYI, the first bolt is starting to lose a little of the sandstone around it, though I expect it to still be good for some time. Apr 3, 2007

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