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Routes in Norman Clyde Peak

North-Northeast Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Twilight Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Sanders, Bingham - Sept 1958
Page Views: 1,313 total, 10/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Feb 2, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Hike up the canyon from Finger Lake towards Norman Clyde Peak. Then, before the glacier, slabs to the right to gain the crest of the long NNE ridge running down from the peak.

The route does not follow the ridge directly - this is Firebird Ridge (IV 5.9) a different proposition.

Cross onto the north face where the ridge begins to steepen and take the path of least resistance up this face about 50/200 feet to the right of the main ridge until the crest of the summit ridge is reached. Scramble to the summit.

Descend the route.

Protection

Solo - or 9mm rope and light passive rack. Ice-axe useful in early season.

Photos

Matthew Mosher  
  4th
Go too far towards the true ridge and you'll find yourself finger locking and hipscumming up something which is most certainly 5th class. Stay to the right, halfway between the ridge and the gully to the east, and you'll be on easy but sandy loose ledges. Not too bad if you nail the route finding but can be quite commiting if you mess up. I found it much easier to find the correct route on the way down (thank God).

Not a particularly good route, but a cool summit and rewarding to complete. Aug 7, 2016
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
When I soloed this route in the 80's I think I went a little to the right of the line, I don't remember any hard bits, but I do remember passing rap slings. Came the same way down and passed a roped team coming up pitch-by-pitch, and rather late. Jun 2, 2007
426
  5.1 R
426  
  5.1 R
I zagged way out to the right when I soloed this route (from photo).

The line drawn in photo is pretty steep, even overhanging in places. There were a lot of bail slings in that area.

A classic summit, talk to Norm while you are there... Mar 12, 2007