Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: Gene Drake, Rex Spaith, 1971
Page Views: 34,101 total · 163/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Please do not climb as of August 23, 2023. Per the Yosemite Climbing Rangers, "A new crack system appeared overnight and there is concern that a major rockfall could happen. The park Geologist will be assessing the scene and we will keep you updated on any further changes." See here for closure.

1. Climb the groove 5.2, into a 4th class ramp, follow this and then some dirty climbing up on a large ledge and build an anchor in the thin finger crack in the middle of the ledge.

2. Climb directly up above the belay until a delicate rising right traverse (no pro) allows a good crack to be gained. Follow this, until you can scramble under a tree onto a ledge and belay.

3. Follow the ledge left and then climb good cracks up to a hanging bolt belay. This is the first of 3 good pitches. (Note: On a crowded day, link pitches 3+4 and build your own anchors to let descending parties pass safely.)

4. Continue up the crack system until an obvious step right can be made where the cracks continue up to the belay.

5. This last pitch is a good one. This climb saves it very best to the very last few moves. Climb up until a nice finger crack allows progress up and onto the belay.

The new rappel route really quickens things and avoids rapping through other parties.
Rap 1: 50' down the slab to an anchor just left of the arete at a nice foot ledge
Rap 2: 80' down and left to a nice ledge below the big tree
Rap 3: 80' down and left to a nice ledge on the next arete
Rap 4: 105' straight down to the ground

Location Suggest change

Located on the left hand side of the Royal Arches Area. 200' up and left from Serenity Crack.

Protection Suggest change

standard Trad rack 1-2 sets nuts, 1-2 sets cams.

Photos

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