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The Fang-Left Side

5.9, Trad,  Avg: 2.2 from 41 votes
FA: FFA: Jim Orey, M. Vincent, 1971
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarloaf > E Face

Description

The Fang is a small pinnacle to the right of "Bolee Gold".
Boulder up onto the ramp of "Bolee Gold", then climb a 5.9 finger crack, and enter a chimney, forming the left side of the pinnacle.
Rappel from bolts or continue up "Harding's Chimney".

Protection

Pro to 2".

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

vincent L.
Redwood City
[Hide Comment] The crux is working up the short crack at the start. Solid finger locks lead to a couple insecure pods. Jam those real good , try to get a toe in the thin crack , and reach high for a solid hand jam . The short chimney is fun and you make an airy exit onto easy face climbing up to the anchor.

You can TR various bolted routes from the anchor.

It is a fun climb. Apr 26, 2009
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Climbed it today, a bat lives in there. Heard strange noises, cross-referenced with youtube, confirmed the noises i heard squeaking at me were a bat.

Super fun route. No sighting of the bat, but I suspect he lives in the 4" crack in the back of the chimney... Jan 18, 2013