PRINT: Rock Climb For A Rocker, Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge

For A Rocker

5.9, Trad,

Avg: 3 from 26 votes
FA: unknown
Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Charon's Gardens > Lost Dome Region > Lost Dome Main Area

Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details

Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.

Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

The crux is definitely the start. Its probably 5.10 face or 5.10 undercling / liebacks. Really not bad, just boulder problemy. Start about 8' right of the corner crack and move up left to gain the crack. Have someone spot you. You gain a great stance and can plug in 2 cams to start off the crack.

Location

SE corner of Lost Dome. Immediately right of Crack-a-lo-lo and around the corner. Start on the E. face and the crack will wind you around the corner. 2 bolt anchor at top (shared with Crack-a-lo-lo). Can double rap.

Protection

Normal refuge trad (nothing bigger than 1 #3 camalot). Can do with all cams easily.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dan Schuerch near top of "For a Rocker". Marked bolts are on Crack-a-lo-lo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK

5.9

The beginning is more of a mental crux than anything. Fairly casual climbing to the crack, just high off the ground. I found that a .4 or .5 works very well in the first finger slot once you get into the crack.....or maybe that was a yellow C3?
Killer jams once you get a couple feet into the crack. Good route to learn cracks. Jan 28, 2008

Jeremy Bauman
Lakewood, CO

5.9 PG13

When we did this we continued past the belay and scrambled around to a big 5.6 crack (To the right of the crack there is some bolted route) and followed it to the Larry's Folly anchors where we met the other climbers of our group and were able to use both of our ropes to get down. Jun 30, 2011

Terry Andrews

I did the FA with Carl Murray back in the 1980s. I named it for the song that Carl was singing all day. Feb 27, 2015