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Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)
5.9-,
Trad, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.7 from 43
votes
FA: Duane Raleigh
Oklahoma
> Wichita Mountai…
> Charon's Gardens
> Lost Dome Region
> Lost Dome Main Area
Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon
Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
There is an old pin that was placed at the crux mantle move. Try not to test it since it was placed circa 1980. I've seen falls on it and it seems fine though. After the mantle move it is easy climbing. Make trad belay once you enter the alcove. I believe it takes medium / small cams. 2nd pitch: climb out of alcove onto face or chimney up and out higher up. Almost no pro on 2nd pitch, but you'd fall into the crack and not off the rock so its not really dangerous. Finish on top of a boulder after coming out of the alcove at a two bolt anchor.
Location
Climbs most obvious crack into a chimney on the same face and to the right of "Tied to the Whipping Post".
Protection
Normal Refuge rack. One bolt (previously a fixed pin) on 1st pitch below the mantel crux. Finish at the 2 bolt anchor with rap ring ontop of a small boulder up and left after the chimney. Takes 2 ropes to double down to the ground or as use the Rap Bolters from Hell station as the intermediate.
[Hide Photo] Beautiful setting!
[Hide Photo] Steven Charles pulls the crux move over the fixed pin on Folly, 9-, WMWR, Oklahoma.
[Hide Photo] photo by andy chasteen
[Hide Photo] Kate Chandler on the crux of Fuson's Folly, the undercling works pretty well.
[Hide Photo] Jordan Ramey on the chimney second pitch of Fuson's Folly. Gear is possible, just keep your eyes open.
[Hide Photo] Jordan Ramey before he tests the pin, by accidently falling on it like he always does :)
[Hide Photo] Brian Water leading, good shot of the whole route
[Hide Photo] Different angle of Jordan preparing for his inevitable fall onto old man pin.
[Hide Photo] Dan Schuerch at the top of pitch 1. Pin marked with an X.
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