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Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)

5.9-, Trad, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 43 votes
FA: Duane Raleigh
Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Charon's Gardens > Lost Dome Region > Lost Dome Main Area
Warning Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. DetailsDrop down

Description

There is an old pin that was placed at the crux mantle move. Try not to test it since it was placed circa 1980. I've seen falls on it and it seems fine though. After the mantle move it is easy climbing. Make trad belay once you enter the alcove. I believe it takes medium / small cams. 2nd pitch: climb out of alcove onto face or chimney up and out higher up. Almost no pro on 2nd pitch, but you'd fall into the crack and not off the rock so its not really dangerous. Finish on top of a boulder after coming out of the alcove at a two bolt anchor.

Location

Climbs most obvious crack into a chimney on the same face and to the right of "Tied to the Whipping Post".

Protection

Normal Refuge rack. One bolt (previously a fixed pin) on 1st pitch below the mantel crux. Finish at the 2 bolt anchor with rap ring ontop of a small boulder up and left after the chimney. Takes 2 ropes to double down to the ground or as use the Rap Bolters from Hell station as the intermediate.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beautiful setting!
[Hide Photo] Beautiful setting!
Steven Charles pulls the crux move over the fixed pin on Folly, 9-, WMWR, Oklahoma.
[Hide Photo] Steven Charles pulls the crux move over the fixed pin on Folly, 9-, WMWR, Oklahoma.
photo by andy chasteen
[Hide Photo] photo by andy chasteen
Kate Chandler on the crux of Fuson's Folly, the undercling works pretty well.
[Hide Photo] Kate Chandler on the crux of Fuson's Folly, the undercling works pretty well.
Pic at first belay and follower at the crux
[Hide Photo] Pic at first belay and follower at the crux
Larry's Folly
[Hide Photo] Larry's Folly
Jordan Ramey on the chimney second pitch of Fuson's Folly.  Gear is possible, just keep your eyes open.
[Hide Photo] Jordan Ramey on the chimney second pitch of Fuson's Folly. Gear is possible, just keep your eyes open.
Jordan Ramey before he tests the pin, by accidently falling on it like he always does :)
[Hide Photo] Jordan Ramey before he tests the pin, by accidently falling on it like he always does :)
Brian Water leading, good shot of the whole route
[Hide Photo] Brian Water leading, good shot of the whole route
Different angle of Jordan preparing for his inevitable fall onto old man pin.
[Hide Photo] Different angle of Jordan preparing for his inevitable fall onto old man pin.
Dan Schuerch at the top of pitch 1.  Pin marked with an X.
[Hide Photo] Dan Schuerch at the top of pitch 1. Pin marked with an X.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Tower
San Francisco
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] or you can always rap to the the anchors for Rap Bolters and Whipping post, clip in and then rap again. Jul 2, 2007
Les Malan
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] It is possible to double rap down on a 60m rope. You just have to swing out wide to climber's left and come down by the tree near Slime of the Century. Simul-rap is probably the best option to maximize rope stretch. I did it yesterday and it's very convenient. Jan 22, 2012
Creed Archibald
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] The pin will hold a 10-12 foot fall. I "tested" it yesterday. This can also be climbed as one long pitch. Rope drag isn't bad because there is almost no gear on P2. We also rapped from the P2 anchor to the ground with a 60 meter rope. It was just long enough. Dec 16, 2012
Drew Nevius
Broken Arrow, OK
  5.8+ R
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. I wish there were a bolted anchor at the start of the wide crack. If it were out right on the arete, it could serve to TR the arete on the left side of the big alcolve. Be warned that the upper chimney is not easily protectable (maybe better if you have still have 3 and 4 Camalots), so this isn't a beginner lead. Bring your lead head! Jan 2, 2017
PatMas
Tulsa, OK
[Hide Comment] The piton is now a bolt. Placed just to the right of the original pin location. Mar 22, 2019
Ted Wilson
Ovilla, Tx
 
[Hide Comment] We made it down with one 70m rope you don’t need two Oct 26, 2019
Jonathan Field
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Did in 1 pitch and wished I had saved a #4 for the top. Don't expect much pro unless you brought the big stuff. Fun and adventurous feeling climb. Mar 1, 2020
[Hide Comment] I wasn't there, but the story I heard was Larry took a huge fall, nearly decking or decking with rope stretch, and was stunned. I think this was the last climb he ever did, because as much as I can remember he quit climbing after this outing. The route got its name from his accident, Larry didn't name it. I'm not sure he even finished the route. Herndon might remember. Apr 5, 2020