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Routes in Al's Garage

Acrophobia S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Aviary S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chase the Dragon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chronic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dharma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Side Days S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Side Daze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jhana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kill The Buddha S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On the Fringe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Samadhi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sangha S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sound of One Hand Slapping S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple Delight S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Vertigo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wake-n-Bake S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yin and Yang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Alan Hirahara, 2000s
Page Views: 245 total · 2/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jan 30, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Starting at an arete, climb the face passed 3 distinct overhangs. The climbing is steep, but never too sustained.

Location

Located on the face right of the central tower

Protection

10 bolts, open shuts anchor

Photos

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Rick Shull
Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
  5.10a/b
Rick Shull   Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV  
  5.10a/b
The large sidepull/sloper just above the third overhang is loose and about to blow. The moves can be done without it at about the same difficulty. Jun 25, 2007
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  5.10b
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
  5.10b
The bolting on this one is confounding. The sixth bolt (I believe) is in a position such that if you blew it there, you would bounce off of a slab. Seventh bolt is quite difficult to clip as well. Moving the sixth bolt 2' higher in the overhanging dihedral would negate the bad fall potential. In addition, one of the bolts (can't recall which) is placed in such a way that the carabiner would be weighted over an edge in the event of a fall. Be solid at the grade. Very fun movement, but don't blow it up there... May 27, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Mammoth Area Rock Climbs 3rd edition rated this 5.10b, but the newest 4th edition has it at 5.9. gotten much easier in btwn editions? or typo? Jun 18, 2016
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
No, Shawn. A typo. For taller climbers, it's not super tough for the grade, but 5.9 leaders would be quite challenged! Now that I've done it a couple of times, it feels easier, like most climbs I suppose. Onsight, this feels solid 5.10. Oh, when you climb up into that left facing corner, put a shoulder-length sling on that clip. A short draw can great BAD rope drag. There's a good hold at the top of the corner for clipping the bolt above. Such a great route!

BAd

PS: No loose holds at this time. Jun 21, 2017
Alistair Veitch
Mountain View, CA
  5.9 PG13
Alistair Veitch   Mountain View, CA
  5.9 PG13
Re all the comments on bolt placement, I found the following:
  • Bolt 6: I put a long sling on it, as suggested. Will take others word that anything shorter would result in drag.
  • Bolt 7: Not the best placement, you have a good hold, but you're in the middle of the overhang; its a strenuous position, with bad fall potential onto the slab below if you blow the clip.
  • Bolt 8: Positioned badly. The bolt biner spine will be badly loaded over a lump in the rock if you fall. I threw an extra (longer) quickdraw on this one as backup.
  • Bolt 9: potential for the rope to be pinched over an edge here. Also somewhere you might want to think about a longer sling.

There was also a slightly loose block in there, but it's not coming out anytime soon. The climbing is excellent though, and it really isn't harder than 5.9 (just be solid at the grade). Jul 23, 2017

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