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Routes in The Pharos

Lamplighter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Coming, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiral Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trojan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Thomson & Wilkinson - 1976
Page Views: 77 total · 1/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 28, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

This excellent testpiece begins in the center of the back wall of the Pharos.

P1: Begin on Kingdom Come's crack and traverse up and left towards a small corner (crux). Continue up into the Judgement Day traverse, performing its crux mantle, and then head straight up to a good belay ledge. 90', 5.11b.

P2: Step airily out to the right to a finger crack and follow this up, generally staying just left of the arete. 100', 5.10+.

The crux, about 25' off the deck, was the scene of one of my scariest moments climbing: I headed up off the ground on pumpy terrain and got my first piece, a 0.75 Camalot in a slot, about 20' up and just before entering the crux sequence. Needing this slot for my hand, I wiggled the cam around a bit until I had room for my my fingers, and then climbed up past it. I didn't realize that I had actually dislodged the cam with my fidgeting until an accidental bump with my toe sent it sliding down the rope to the ground. I remember my belayer saying something like, "Don't fall," to which I screached in sweaty-palmed, cruxing terror, "I KNOW THAT!!!" Fortunately I made the next few moves and was able to fish in another piece.

Protection

Standard Rack.

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