Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Shepherd & Mentz - 1991 P2: Janes & Nuttelman - 2004
Page Views: 1,587 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 28, 2007

You & This Route

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Return to Gariwerd is a stunning thin crack and face climb on the Eureka Towers which sit just above and left of the Eureka Wall. Head up past the Wall and begin on the righthand edge of the Eureka Towers at an obvious, sheer orange and grey face with a crack that gradually thins and gives way to diagonal slash-marks on the face.

P1: Ascend the increasingly difficult crack until it gives way to face climbing up the slash-marked face (protected but small wires). Ultimately arrive at a stance under a roof with a good natural belay off of a thread and a horn. 5.11-.

P2: Hand traverse straight left from the belay for 40 feet under the roof. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds are more spaced. A bolted anchor at the end of the traverse allows for a quick rappel with one rope. 5.10+.

With adequate runnering of gear these two pitches can be linked into one monster pitch (recommended!).


Standard rack, emphasis on small gear.