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Chapusero

5.11a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 34 votes
FA: Alan Hirahara, 1998
California > Eastern Sierra > Mammoth Lakes Area > Clark Canyon > Area 13 > Area 13 - Left Side

Description

This climb shares the start of "This Ain't No Weenie Roast". After the 3rd bolt trend rightwards up a finger crack to stance below an arete.

The crux is soon reached as you climb up the left side of the arete. The first half of this arete has a couple of committing moves.

The climb is spoilt by poorly placed bolts - they seem to be too over to the left.

Location

Located just right of "Ugly".

Protection

10 bolts, anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michelle Wenski
Mammoth Lakes, CA
[Hide Comment] The route goes more to the left. That's why the bolts are there. You can climb to the right of them and miss the crux and the whole climb! May 9, 2012
Josh C
Somewhere out West
[Hide Comment] For mere mortals like myself, if you climb through the first five bolts and stop at the midway anchor to Wild Will's Arete the route goes at 10a and seemed 2 1/2 to 3 stars to me. Feb 5, 2015
opusgrooves
[Hide Comment] This route is awesome but definitely committing. Bring your A-game to move up the blank face. No surprise at 5.11a technical slab/ blank face climbing. Great time but rather "bold" from the 3rd-4th bolt (I think). Will be back to clean it up asap. Clark Canyon is EPIC! Thanks for bolting. Wish the bolts were placed a little better for protection but worth the risk IMO. Have fun and stick to the face (cruxy)! Apr 9, 2018
Ian Puleston
Los Gatos, CA
[Hide Comment] Agree with maggie-girl. Not being sure which way was correct at the top, I climbed the obvious edge line just left of the 3 bolts, then lowered down and climbed the arete on its left side. The latter was scrappy and easier, maybe 10c, where out left was good clean climbing and had the move that would rate 11a. May 28, 2018
David Verhoeven
George Town, Cayman Islands
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Fun climbing! Was a tricky onsight, but all the moves/holds are there if you look around and are creative. Pity the runout leaving the slab forces you to go right to the jugs to clip - going direct would be more fun and sustained (another bolt slightly down and to the left could encourage this and avoid the runout). The rest of the climbing was super fun and technical straight up the bolt line. Would recommend! May 26, 2022