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Routes in Area 13 - Left Side

A Danger to Ourselves and Others T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bodhisattva S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Borrowing From Tradition S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapusero S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chupacabras S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digit Delight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drop Zone S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exqueeze Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Yam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
IEPA! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mobetta Fogetta S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Trad Than Rad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Now and Zen S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Ain't No Weenie Roast S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Many Princesses S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Will's Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Alan Hirahara, 1998
Page Views: 645 total · 5/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jan 27, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This climb shares the start of "This Ain't No Weenie Roast". After the 3rd bolt trend rightwards up a finger crack to stance below an arete.

The crux is soon reached as you climb up the left side of the arete. The first half of this arete has a couple of committing moves.

The climb is spoilt by poorly placed bolts - they seem to be too over to the left.

Location [Suggest Change]

Located just right of "Ugly".

Protection [Suggest Change]

10 bolts, anchors

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The route goes more to the left. That's why the bolts are there. You can climb to the right of them and miss the crux and the whole climb! May 9, 2012
Josh Cameron
California
Josh Cameron   California
For mere mortals like myself, if you climb through the first five bolts and stop at the midway anchor to Wild Will's Arete the route goes at 10a and seemed 2 1/2 to 3 stars to me. Feb 5, 2015
This route is awesome but definitely committing. Bring your A-game to move up the blank face. No surprise at 5.11a technical slab/ blank face climbing. Great time but rather "bold" from the 3rd-4th bolt (I think). Will be back to clean it up asap. Clark Canyon is EPIC! Thanks for bolting. Wish the bolts were placed a little better for protection but worth the risk IMO. Have fun and stick to the face (cruxy)! Apr 9, 2018
Agree with maggie-girl. Not being sure which way was correct at the top, I climbed the obvious edge line just left of the 3 bolts, then lowered down and climbed the arete on its left side. The latter was scrappy and easier, maybe 10c, where out left was good clean climbing and had the move that would rate 11a. May 28, 2018

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