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Routes in Dunes Buttress

Arab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandpiper T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Peisker 1976
Page Views: 37 total, 0/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jan 27, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

This prominent line, visible from camp, gets a lot less traffic than it deserves. Mostly crack climbing. The Mentz guidebook lists it a single pitch route, but I recommend breaking it in two as the belayer cannot see or possibly hear the leader at the crux if done as one; the leader of the only party I've ever seen on SP (aside from my own) flailed piteously at the crux, his travails made all the worse by his belalyer's inability to hear any of the many commands that were being issued.

The start looks intimidating, wide and slippery, but it goes at maybe 5.9. After about 10M at an obvious juncture break left and, if this rating isn't a lead pipe cinch for you, set up a belay at the base of the difficulties. About 7M of juggy face climbing gets you to the crux where you are presented with good gear and a plethora of face and crack holds, none of which work quite right in combination. Figure something out (what I came up with was pretty reachy at 170cm) and pull into the righthand crack. If you're deft or desperate, you can contrive a rest in a pod whence you can place bomber gear and contemplate the overhanging finger crack above; send this classic, strenuous passage of prime fingerlocking and proceed to the anchors on easier but still steep ground.

There is a fixed rap at the end. The guidebook says this is 26M, I don't remember how far it was.

Location

Close to the arete on Dunes Buttress down and left from Eskimo Nell.

Protection

The initial crack takes gear up to a 4 Friend or Camalot. The crux and above takes mainly small and medium nuts and finger size cams. I recall placing a reassuring 00 TCU at the crux. If you do it in one pitch, you will want long slings.

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