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Routes in Holiday Wall

Death Before Decaf S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fast Moving Train S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift Rapped S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grinch, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moments to Memories S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Presents of Mind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Sky Mining S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Storm Rising S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Saddam's Mom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
When the Cat's Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Greg Mayer, 12/90
Page Views: 802 total · 6/month
Shared By: Gary Savage on Jan 27, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Probably something has broken on this one over the years. It is diffenetly not 11a like the Swain book says. Delicate climbing on small crimps will get you to some powerful move towards the top then travese right to finish at the chains.

Location

Climbs along the left arete and face.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c/d
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c/d
I dont know if this is .11c/d, the crux is definitely thin and steep, though. I'd say .11a is reasonable, although .11b would probably be more accurate. Watch clipping the second bolt- thats a spooky move for sure. Apr 14, 2007
Deniz
Boise
Deniz   Boise
This felt significantly harder than a 5.11a - though it was my third day on and it was the last climb of the day so maybe I was just really really tired. Dec 5, 2011
I'm loving the one-man grade dispute-rated it the same as the OP, PLUS a PG-13 (not common on Calico sport routes), THEN going to 11a original grade agreement, *THEN* maybe 11b?

The only thing obvious here is that someone is very confused about how many grades you can apply to one climb.

"John Wilder
Apr 14, 2007
RATING: Suggests 5.11C/D PG-13
I dont know if this is .11c/d, the crux is definitely thin and steep, though. I'd say .11a is reasonable, although .11b would probably be more accurate. Watch clipping the second bolt- thats a spooky move for sure."

Is it just me? Or is this weird, or normal, or partly strange, or maybe more normal than usual? Or 5.4 R/X? Dec 5, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.11c/d
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.11c/d
The route isn't too bad as a top rope problem, although the anchors are in a terrible place. It is god-awful to lead, though, because there are absolutely no clipping stances. Pretty unpleasant, honestly, and certainly not 11a. Mar 29, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c/d
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c/d
On Jan 23rd, 2014 the ASCA replaced all 5 protection bolts and the anchors of this route with ClimbTech glue-in Wave bolts and equipped the anchor with mussy hooks. Jan 23, 2014
I thought this was really fun and will do it again. Cool, techie moves in the middle, then a nice lock-off clip, loads of dynamic movement and pawing around topout. Super fun line. Feb 10, 2014
Al99  
This felt similar to other 5.11c/d I have done in RR. Harder than 5.11b I think. The top felt like a desperate struggle today. I thought it was harder than Red Storm Rising. Mar 15, 2015

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