Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Lisenby and Keith Reynolds
Page Views: 3,744 total · 25/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Jan 26, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This route climbs the gorgeous corner to the right of Hoop Dancer and to the left of Vision Quest. It tops out at the notch between Hummingbird Spire and the King of Pain and provides a good alternative for accessing the second pitches of Hoop Dancer or Sacred Space.

Pitch 1- This is the business. Climb the off-fingers crack up the left-facing corner to a bolted belay stance on the right. There are very few rests! (5.12)

Pitch 2- Continue up the left-facing corner with hands and a few wide moves. A short, loose section gains the notch. (5.10)

Note: This route can be climbed in one long pitch.


A standard desert rack of cams up to 3.5” with many extras in the .5 to #1 Camalot range. 10 cams in that range would not be out of line.


Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
This could be the cleanest pitch at the Bridger Jack area. For that reason I give it 4-stars. Linking this to the final overhanging handcrack pitch of Hoop Dancer makes for an amazing climb. Apr 8, 2007
Pretty sure that Matt Lizzenbee (sp?) put this one up, but not to the notch. The real bad-ass link would be into Sacred Space. You'd need a hell of a rack! Mar 7, 2008
That's right Chris - Keith Reynolds and I did this just to the mantle/ledge. Sep 12, 2008
Skyeler Congdon
his van
Skyeler Congdon   his van
I fell at the crux yesterday and my cam ripped off a 6'x2'x1' chunk of rock, which hit me in the face. I was heli-evac'ed to Grand Junction with possible head and chest trauma (I'm doing okay, though).

My friends cleaned most of the pitch as I was being carried down, but left two cams in the crack (a .75 and .5 camalot, I believe). If you climb this route soon, please help me get those cams back to my friends. This route is really cool, but apparently has difficult-to-discern loose rock in the crack. Thanks Oct 31, 2011
Larry Bruce
Whitefish, MT
Larry Bruce   Whitefish, MT
Hey Skyeler,
Glad you are doing ok! I think you really scared the shit out of Peter. Lets help get the boy's gear back, really a tough day for these great guys. Oct 31, 2011
Hey, Skyeler. Glad you are ok. My partner has your cams, if your friends are still at the Creek, would be glad to get them back to you. Am curious - where did you pull the block from? Above or below the chains? The crack below the chains looks super clean. Nov 5, 2011
I'm not sure if those cams are still in your possession, but they are actually mine and I am interested in getting them back. Let me know if you still have them, and if so maybe you could send them to me? I would pay the postage. Nov 11, 2011
Booty is in the eye of the beholder, Jeremy. I took it out of the crack to try and help out someone who got the short end of the indian creek straw, trying to make the experience a little more positive. Spectacular climb! Still goes post rock explosion and still looks like a beautiful corner not likely to break. Definitely way safer than the choss to the left of it. Nov 28, 2011
Skyeler Congdon
his van
Skyeler Congdon   his van
Got a cam in the mail, yesterday!! I'd like to say an enormous THANK YOU to this incredible community of climbers!!!

Peter, Kayla, and Jane- I owe my life to you guys! Thank you for flawlessly and fearlessly using your WFR skills to keep my spine immobilzed, even while I became a DIC head!

Thank you to the SAR team from Monticello who carried my heavy ass down on a backboard.

Thank you to the nurses and doc's who gave me excellent care, and much needed painkillers;)

Thank you to Kris, Dolgio, and others who were understanding and compassionate enough to get the gear back to us! You guys and gals rule!!

And endless thanks to my friends and family who have been so supportive and loving through this accident. I've realized how dependent each of us are on the selfless love of others, and without the practice of compassion for strangers and kin alike, our society will disintegrate into madness and untold suffering.

And don't worry about Jeremy's comment, he was responding to a whiny comment I made when I woke up one morning in a mad mood from considerable pain (which I immediately deleted). Dec 9, 2011
Kind of ironic the first comment is about this route being the cleanest in the bridgerjacks and the rest is about a guy who got hurt (glad everything seems to be okay for you! Hopefully everything is good a few years on) pulling a chunk of rock out of it. It's just a reminder that climbing at the Bridgerjacks is not the same as climbing at the creek, even on the cleanest of lines. Mar 27, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
This was one of my favorite 5.12 pitches of all time. Amazing. Devious and imaginative crux and super clean corner. Yes, the rock quality isn't superb, but I couldn't ask for much more in a 5.12 corner. Nov 16, 2016