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Routes in p. Little Havana

Core Shot T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cuba Libre T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Havana Club T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hump-and-Dump aka Bodyrock TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mad Politics TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Motorcycle Diarrhias TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Speak Easy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Susie Q T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 204 total, 2/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 26, 2007
Admins: JSH

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4 Opinions

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Description

I can't bring myself to give this one a bomb, but unless you REALLY like squeeze chimneys, this thing is miserable. I don't mind squeeze chimneys, but this particular one is rather dirty and loose.

Location

Between Havana Club and Motorcycle Diarrheas, there's a chimney perhaps 15 feet off the ground; climb up into and through the chimney. Easy walk-off.

Protection

I TRed it; didn't check for gear. Gear-only anchor.

Photos

This can easily be done as a TR. There are several good trees at the top and lots of walk-up/scramble routes to get to the top of the cliff (pad them appropriately!). You may want a directional half-way down the route at the tree on the big ledge, or just pass the climber's side of the rope to the right of the tree.

Despite what others have said, I actually thought this was fun. Oct 24, 2017
Phredward
Brooklyn, NY
 
Phredward   Brooklyn, NY
 
I thought the crux was going to be getting into the lower chimney, but no, the squeeze definitely gets going in the upper section. It's tough work, but rewarding. I found it to be clean, with mostly high quality rock (a few suspect loose blocks in the back of the lower chimney).

Of course, it's a squeeze, so prepare yourself for a full body workout and possibly skinned knees. That said, I had a blast. Felt much harder than other gunks 5.6's. New guide book says 5.7, I think. I'd personally say it's 5.8. Jun 20, 2016
The upper chimney is quite smooth and presents what is probably the purest "body squirm" squeeze chimneying experience in the Gunks. In other words, most folks will hate it. Sep 28, 2011
Troy McCormick
New York
 
Troy McCormick   New York
 
Led this today thinking I was getting on Havana Club. The guidebook photo for that one and Cuba Libre are both incorrect. The description and photo here are right on though, very awkward squeeze chimney. I actually thought it was fun but could see how some would hate it. Gear is good up until the ledge, the top part not so much. Apr 3, 2011