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Routes in o. Big Slab & Compactor

Headbangers Ball TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Slant Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 192 total, 1/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 26, 2007
Admins: JSH

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Description

Typical Gunks diagonal fingercrack/face combo. Might be awkward for those without good foot technique. Reminded me a bit of Ken's Crack, except without the bomber fingerlocks.

Location

As you approach the Big Slab/Compactor area, you'll notice the alcove directly ahead and a large slab on the left. Slant Crack is on the left wall, just before the alcove; follow the diagonal crack to top, step out and around to the face, straight to top. A walk-off is possible, but it involves a bit of a class 4 scramble to get to the very top of the cliff where you'll find the path.

Protection

Adequate protection on lead. Please make certain to place several directionals on the route if you TR it; the route goes off at a good angle, and the potential pendulum isn't pleasant. Gear-only anchor.

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