Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Danny Meyers, Nick Nordblom 1986
Page Views: 1,644 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chad Kuhlman on Jan 25, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Arguably the best route on the cliff. A very enjoyable climb with good protection the whole way up. A great route for any one looking to break into harder traditional climbing. The route has the occasional hand jams, finger locks, and many face holds to keep you guessing. The steepness of the climb at the top will pump you out if you hesitate to long, so place that 0 TCU (Saved by Zero) and go for it.

Location

This route is the obvious finger crack up the left side of the cliff that gets steeper at the top.

Protection

SR to 2", TCU's, and a couple of larger pieces for the gear anchor at the top.

Photos

Danny Meyers
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
Danny Meyers   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
Nick & I met at the First Pullout and as we discussed doing a long route (The Nose), I told him of a crack that I had scoped out. He was game to look at it and after doing so, we went back to the truck and got our gear. Nick led the route, I followed it (barely) and he named it as well - can you guess what size TCU he used to protect the crux of the route? This was the first route done at the Fixx Cliff. Nov 14, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10+
This is undoubtedly an awesome climb. But, for what it's worth, it is essentially a face climb with the crack for pro. There are a few good locks and jams though if you're inclined to use them. For the most part Red Rock traditional rock climbs are pretty right on for the grade if not a little stiff despite the widespread rumor that everything in Red Rock is soft. But this one is definitely on the soft side- I don't think this thing can barely tip 5.11-... maybe on a hot day or after you've eaten a pizza and drank a six-pack. Apr 1, 2012