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It Ain't All It's Crack'd Up To Be

5.9-, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > l. Cuckoo's Nest & th…

Description

Avoid using Pitch Pines (which are protected, and banned from use in anchors) at the top; be sure to use the large white pine tree (OK to anchor to) just above this route.

Location

Walk all the way down the crevice to where it meets the other way in; climb the inside corner past the tree to the top. The crux comes just below the finish. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Standard rack, well-protected with some bigger gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Not as cramped as this photo makes it look.
[Hide Photo] Not as cramped as this photo makes it look.
Looking up at the route. Note the climber's side of the rope running up BEHIND the tree.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the route. Note the climber's side of the rope running up BEHIND the tree.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

dianna
[Hide Comment] If this is the route I think it is, then there are some deciduous trees farther back (you'll need about 100 feet of static line/webbing) and one boulder that can either be slung (although there's a pitch pine right up against it) or you can use some pro on it, I reckon. Still, tricky to toprope. But worth the trouble. Jul 15, 2009
Gunkiemike
[Hide Comment] Au contraire! Large white pine tree (OK to anchor to) just above this route. Jul 25, 2011
Will Deegan
Jackson Heights, NY
 
[Hide Comment] We anchored on the white pine and a large boulder that we could sling around to TR this one. Great climb, but not an easy rappel if you want to get back down again due to tree growing off the ledge 1/3 of the way down. Aug 8, 2019
John Cottone
  5.9
[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=IcBTXbP… Sep 5, 2023