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Routes in l. Cuckoo's Nest and the Crevice

1-800-Stick-It Arete TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cuckoo's Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
It Ain't All It's Crack'd Up To Be T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Land of the Lost, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Ripper, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 111 total, 1/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 25, 2007
Admins: JSH

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Description

Another seldom-climbed route on this wall. Never seen anyone on it, what with Psycho Wall being so close and the anchors being so problematic.

Location

Climb the right-most arete of the Cuckoo's Nest wall, through roof at the top. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Unknown. Guidebook says "TR". Problematic gear-only anchor at top.

Photos

Yes this is easily tr from the bolted anchors across the crack. Half inch directionals are good. Grade felt right at 10a. Sep 24, 2013
this should get climbed more often, especially if you already have a rope over yellow wallpaper on the psycho block wall (which is two feet away).

from TR on yellow wallpaper bolts you can reach a couple cams in horizontals directly over the arete as directionals. we used .3 and .4 C4's but you can get fingertip to hand size pro in under that roof and on the face above.

hell, from TR on yellow wallpaper you can stem over to the top of the arete under the big roof and place gear directionals from a huge ledge.

the moves on this are fun, thin and thoughtful. Jun 24, 2012