PRINT: Rock Climb Tension Tamer, Eastern Sierra

Tension Tamer

5.13a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 15 votes
FA: Doug McDonald, October 1995
California > Eastern Sierra > Mammoth Lakes Area > Bear Crag > 5) Huber Wall

Description

This is one of the steeper outings in the Eastern Sierra's, and is an area classic. No move is harder than ~V2, but how many V2's can you do in a row?

The best pure endurance testpiece in Mammoth.

Location

Next to "I Fly."

Protection

10 bolts + anchors; equipped with fixed cable draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bitter in action.

Tom Helvie on Tension Tamer.

Luke Lydiard chalking up on Tension Tamer.

Matt Ciancio on Tension Tamer

Things feel looser than last year. The big jug at the top that is already epoxied could use more glue. If it rips out that will be a damn shame. Other spots could use some too. Only 2 stars due to the choss but still fun as hell to climb. Worth fixing up. Sep 3, 2019

Josh Harmon
Sacramento, CA

Recommend stick clipping due to choss at the bottom. It's a reasonable entrance fee and the rest of the route is great. I didn't have a kneepad but one could come in handy...though then you might have to downgrade it... Jun 26, 2021

Wylie
Bishop, CA

5.12c

I've been curious about the new knee bar beta with the fancy modern knee pads and finally tried it out. I found a great knee bar rest that eliminates the red point crux. It's a great route with a kneepad or without, but the kneebar drops the grade significantly. I could get a lot back just under the "old school" pocket hold crux, basically making that part cruiser because the pump wasn't on. I'd say with kneepad 12C no kneepad 13A. Sep 10, 2022

Jake Ramsey
Yosemite, CA