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Routes in The Gully Of Biblical Proportions

Blind Faith S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Confessional, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Devils advocate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Forbidden Fruit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotta Have Faith S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Slit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hushpuppies & Hand Grenades S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lost Soul S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Master Blaster S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Master of Craft S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muehl Train aka "Hell's Creation", The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Original Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Plastered Bastard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stigmata S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Pete DeLannoy
Page Views: 541 total · 4/month
Shared By: Brent Kertzman on Jan 23, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

The crux is a sequential series of really neat moves low on the route. Move right onto the flake then back left onto the face. Eventually move left onto the arete near the top and locate the anchors.

Location

This route is located on the right side of the first arete encountered as you traverse rightward across the access/belay ledge. There is a belay bolt at the base of the route.

Protection

Seven Bolts plus a Set of Closed Cold Shut Anchors
Might be wise to stick clip the first bolt

Photos

BBQ
 
BBQ  
 
I don't care what anyone says, this is a four star canyon classic! It has a level of technical difficulty and a headiness factor that are a notch above most 5.11b's in Spearfish Canyon. It is worth doing because it is old school. Within this climb the developer created a test piece of art, which has a different quality when compared to other Black Hills sport climbs. It is one of many climbs at this grade that I have yet to red point, but this one is just that much harder for some strange reason that I can't explain. I have been working it consistantly for three seasons, and it is still shutting me down while many other 5.11b climbs went down in just two sessions, that alone speaks volumes of it. A three star route in the new guidebook. Get on this climb if you want to know what 5.11b feels in an old school way. Sep 17, 2011
WAGbag
Denver, CO
 
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
 
This would be a lot better if it actually climbed the arete like it would appear it should (given bolt line). It actually climbs right of the bolt line away from the arete all the way until the end, where you'll find two fun moves. Aug 25, 2011

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