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Jester

5.10b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 104 votes
FA: T. Wilhelmi, J. Bowes
Colorado > Ft Collins > Poudre Canyon > Palace > Chamber
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Description

This is another fun 5.10 on this shady wall. This endurance route angles left to a couple of crack systems. The crux is finding the easiest way to the leftmost crack. A variety of jams, liebacks, and face moves make the this long route worthwhile.

Location

This is the second route to the left of Churchill.

Protection

10 bolts....

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

About halfway up.
[Hide Photo] About halfway up.
Dakota up high on Jester.  This pitch just keeps on going!
[Hide Photo] Dakota up high on Jester. This pitch just keeps on going!
Cale halfway through the route.
[Hide Photo] Cale halfway through the route.
Tommy cleaning Jestor, 13-Feb-2009.  Crystal Wall in the background.
[Hide Photo] Tommy cleaning Jestor, 13-Feb-2009. Crystal Wall in the background.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

A. Wolaver
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] This route is good, long, and sustained. However, proceed with extreme caution, I have pulled a good sized block off the top quarter and have witnessed spencer take a screamer when a foothold broke in the light rain. The two cruxes, 15 feet from the ground to a good ledge and 25 feet in between crack systems, are on quality rock. May 15, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
[Hide Comment] This route is too fun, awesome crimps, sustainable crux. I found a good pincher just left of the fifth bolt. A hard anchor clip, for me @ 5' 9". Sep 2, 2008
Clint Ballard
Greeley, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know what the route between Jestor and The Rack is? Oct 4, 2008
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Clint, the route is in the database and called "In Between the Sheets". Apr 8, 2010
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I think there are better routes on this wall. The bottom had some great movement, but top was a bit tricky. How this rock is still being held together is a mystery to me. Sep 22, 2014
Tombo
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] For me at 5'6", the crux wasn't the climbing, but clipping bolts 5 and 6 was. Oct 28, 2016
Hansen Lister
Bend
 
[Hide Comment] There is a new wasp nest a couple feet away from the first bolt, could be used as a sweet mono pocket. Aug 17, 2019
John Lombardi
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] The anchors have been fitted with durable lower-off hardware courtesy of the Northern Colorado Climbing Coalition. To support work like this, donate today: nococlimbing.org/. Dec 22, 2020