Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,975 total · 14/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

31 Opinions

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This climb starts out with thin 5.10 face climbing up to a left ward traverse to an obvious under-clinging hold. The guidebook says to go big with a lunge to a jug, but there are 2 other ways to climb the route. If you are tall, you can get a shoulder wrenching high gaston out right and do the move static. It is also possible to bypass the move on the right with 5.11a face climbing. Unique moves....


This is the 3rd route to the right of the mine.


8 bolts.


Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
Very fun but not consistent, middle part is much easier and provides good rests. First few moves are great, watch the foot work if you hit the gaston at the overhang. Mar 30, 2007
Krister Sorensen
Centennial, CO
Krister Sorensen   Centennial, CO
I think Spencer hit it right on the nose. The lunge is also possible to do static with out the gaston. Really cool move and you are missing out if you avoid it. Mar 31, 2007
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
Opening moves are probably 11a-ish then the middle sequence probably goes at 10. I couldn't stick the dyno, so I moved off a crimp to a gaston out right. This way probably takes it down a letter grade or two (but I suck at dynos). Like all routes here, the bottom was tricky for me to read. Nov 18, 2007
W. Spaller  
Conserving energy for the last 2 moves is essential. Very fun route. Feb 7, 2009
adam wibby  
If you don't want to dyno don't climb it. If you have a pair, have fun! Aug 17, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
I'm 5.9 and I didn't dyno, really stretched out. I never left my right foot hold. Instead of the right side pull at the crux, look for a knob to undercling and float to the jug. If you know how to levitate, that would help some. Aug 24, 2009
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
The dyno move seemed pretty contrived to me. You have to move away from the obvious crack that you have been following and almost move onto Monstrosity. Also, don't blow the mantel onto the ledge after the "dyno" crux; it would be nasty. Bottom is fun, but I enjoy the route more by finishing on the anchors to the right and avoiding the crux all together. Your experience my be different. Apr 9, 2012
Dylan Demyanek
Las Vegas, NV
Dylan Demyanek   Las Vegas, NV
DO THE DYNO. That is all. You are only cheating yourself.... Apr 6, 2013