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Scheister

5.7, Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 126 votes
FA: unknown, 1950's
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarloaf > E Face

Description

Scheister starts just up the ramp just left of Crushed Velvet (bolted face) and the Farley lieback. It is just uphill from Harding's chimney. Start up the ramp, and then work into the chimney. It is pretty easy at first, stem as long as possible. It narrows down, and then you must pull out of it onto the face (crux.)

You can belay at the shelf, or continue up a little farther and belay at the bolted stance which is the p2 anchor of Crushed Velvet. Continue up the big corner, move left under the roof, and then hike up and back right and up another corner to the summit notch. belay here, then tunnel out the back.

Location

see description

Protection

standard rack. A #4 camalot or equivalent is needed to protect the crux.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Katherine gets her lieback/smear/jam on during the excellent second pitch.<br>
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[Hide Photo] Katherine gets her lieback/smear/jam on during the excellent second pitch.
Looking down the P1 squeeze on Scheister
[Hide Photo] Looking down the P1 squeeze on Scheister
Higher up on Scheister.
[Hide Photo] Higher up on Scheister.
Me being a bad belayer. Nick leading p2 of Scheister. You can also run the first pitch out to about where you see him, there are two bolted anchors to the right. It will be a hanging belay though
[Hide Photo] Me being a bad belayer. Nick leading p2 of Scheister. You can also run the first pitch out to about where you see him, there are two bolted anchors to the right. It will be a hanging belay though
Looking at the the third and final pitch of scheister from the south summit of Sugarloaf. This pitch is the finish to a number of climbs
[Hide Photo] Looking at the the third and final pitch of scheister from the south summit of Sugarloaf. This pitch is the finish to a number of climbs
Starting up Scheister.
[Hide Photo] Starting up Scheister.
The crux of Scheister.  Exiting the squeeze.
[Hide Photo] The crux of Scheister. Exiting the squeeze.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

phatline
Burlingame, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Wish I extended my #4 before the crux, because the chimney narrows so much that I had to leave the crack--ended up inverting the cam from the outward tugs.

Also I recommend doing the tunnel-through finish as indicated here, or if you go right (as I did), be mindful of rope drag Mar 16, 2007
Chris DeWitt
Sacramento, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Encountered all the same problems phatline did. We didn't have a #4 cam for the crux which made it a bit more scary.

There was one rather loose largish rock on the second pitch that I could see possibly falling in the future.

Otherwise a great route. Mar 22, 2010
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The loose block that Chris may be commenting on I believe is on a right facing wider crack to the left of the usual left facing dihedral second pitch.

The 3rd pitch seems to have a few variations. The usual way you climb up a fun groove, go through a hole and then up a short but strenuous flaring chimney. An alternate variation is to turn right before the hole. It climbs a slab past a bolt and then continues up past another bolt or two to the summit. I believe the first variation to be easier and more classic. Watch for rope drag on both variations. Nov 8, 2010
Ryan Kosh
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] The first variation listed above seems to be unprotected, but easier (there is a chopped bolt at your face before entering the summit chimney, but I didn't see any other pro)

The second variation is well-protected with two bolts (look further right if you see a bad machine bolt)

Rope drag is bad on both. Nov 11, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I think I did the second variation? This pitch only has one bolt that I saw, however.

Third pitch: Sling everything long and don't place too much protection. Extend your anchor from the summit bolts in order to belay at the top of the final chimney exit, and - Voila! - minimal rope drag.

Consider a rope tug system worked out for communication on the third pitch if there's much wind up there. Jan 11, 2012
Josh C
Somewhere out West
  5.7
[Hide Comment] A great finish is to climb the 2nd half of the 3rd pitch of Blue Velvet. On Scheister's 3rd pitch, when you're standing on the ledge after the slab, but before the easy gully, look up and slightly left and you'll see a bolt. Follow the line up the steep face. You'll finish on a ledge a short traverse left of the tunnel through. Feb 23, 2012
[Hide Comment] Beautiful weather at Sugarloaf this weekend. Climbed Scheister for the first time and would highly recommend it, as a beginner multipitch leader I had a blast. I'll toprope 10a outdoors and 11a/b in the gym, and this 5.7+ was very manageable for me, with no "oh shit" moments.

We took the tunnel finish, very satisfying topping out through it! I was happy to have extended the BD #4 and 3.5 I placed in the first pitch chimney, as mentioned above.

Full trip report and some more pics climbstuff.com/climbing/tri… Nov 27, 2012
Russell Cohen
Redwood City, California
[Hide Comment] Went to climb scheister. Scared the shit out of myself by accidentally climbing hardings chimney (5.8R) instead. Make sure you're on the right route!!! If you get to the start of the chimney and there are 2 pitons, you're in the wrong place! Apr 7, 2016
Brad Pavik
Roseville
 
[Hide Comment] This route is awesome, but that could be due to the fact that it was my first multi-pich trad climb. The first pitch can be protected with a #3 c4 if you scoot it up with you deep on the crack, however, I strongly suggest you bring two #3 camlots or larger to protect the first pitch comfortably.. or don't to spice thing up a bit( i lived and only had one #3).

As for the finish, the tunnel through is a waste of time in my opinion and just adds rope drag and communication issues. I originally did the tunnel through and the climbing basically ends once you are at that point. I felt cheated so when I got my partner to the top I rappelled off and hit the alternate finish and was much more satisfied. When you get to the tunnel, rather that going in it, look up and to the right and go that way. There is one lone bolt for protection before you get to the anchors on top of the dome.

Don't forget you can walk off (scramble), It's not obvious though Oct 10, 2016
Eric MC
Oakland, CA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Was glad to have two #4s, as a chimney novice. Went right side in the whole time, my partner went left side in and switched sides at the crux. Not sure which is better. May 10, 2017