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5.10c, Trad, 100 ft,
Avg: 3.2 from 34 votes
FA: Will Cottrell and friends
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarloaf > E Face
This is the bolted face between Schiester and Farley. Start off the ramp leading to scheister, you can clip the first bolt before committing to the tricky opening move.
Reachy clip for 2nd bolt, then trend right and back left to keep the grade sub 11. Crux is a smear up high.
Stellar route, sustained balancy movement between knobs and edges. Not a power route at all, all balance, finesse and footwork.
The route takes 2 more pitches and tops out, but the final pitch is R. Last two pitches are seldom done.
bolted face between scheister and Farley.
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Mike Arechiga on, Blue Velvet. 5.10c.
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Opening moves are definitely the crux. I'm tall, so I started out high left and worked my way over to the right.
One other easier crux up higher when transitioning from the right to the left.
Apr 1, 2009
Los Alamos, NM
Multiple cruxes and very sustained.
Nov 7, 2010
THA WEST COAST
Beautiful route, sustained the whole way. Found moves above 1st bolt most exciting until 2nd clip was made. Stellar knob climbing!
Jan 29, 2011
Somewhere out West
The first pitch is what this climb is known for but there is an awesomely exposed 3rd pitch that leads to the tunnel through om Harding's Chimney. Climb all of Blue Velvet to get there or to bypass the freaking scary 2nd pitch climb Harding's or Scheister.
On the 3rd pitch of those easier routes, after the slab but before the 5.5 gully, look up the improbable looking face and you'll see several bolts heading up the face above you. Well protected at the cruxes but I wouldn't want to fall before the first bolt (insecure and balancy) or after it traverses around the arete near the top (5.9/10aish with pendulum potential). An awesome 3 pitch climb or a proud finish to Harding's or Scheister.
Jan 3, 2014
Climbed this yesterday, 29-Apr-2017, the 2nd and 3rd pitches are awesome! If you can climb the first pitch the 5.8 runout on pitch 2 will be no problem for you. The moves on pitch 3 are very memorable. The climbing is more sustained and interesting than Boulee Gold. More traffic on the upper pitches would clean off some lichen and make the pitches even better. You can rappel the route with 2 ropes, or finish on the tunnel-through of Harding's Chimney and then walk off.
Apr 30, 2017
P1 needs first bolt replaced, bolt 2 is set too high (ankle breaker potential). remainder of P1 is very good quality
Pitch 2 is very contrived and of little value. P3 is quite good and can be done as an Alternative to finish Farley or Sheister
This is the climb that bolted over part of Tapestry
Dec 28, 2017