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Routes in Slab City (Right)

*Juggernaut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
*Utopia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
*White Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chaste but Tasty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grab them by the P S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Groove Factor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lovely Lady S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pity Committee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pleasure Dome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scrawny, not Brawny S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Light S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 853 total · 6/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jan 21, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

The climb starts with a couple of swift pulls on small edges. Getting past the start may prove to be the crux for some.

After 3 bolts an overlap is reached. For many this will prove to be the crux. To succeed you must commit to a steep lieback, but the holds are good, and after a few moves big flat holds offer comfort.

The climbing above is not as difficult as what lies below, but it is fun with a mixture of reachy balance moves and slab climbing.

Location

Scramble up loose rocks and dirt and start 20' left of *Utopia.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 open shuts anchor

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
A crimpy start with marginal feet is the technical crux, but the full-bore lieback slightly higher is the mental crux, as well as being the most physical part of the route. Once past the lieback the moves are varied and fun all the way to the anchors. Jan 22, 2007
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.11a/b
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.11a/b
This route is probably my favorite in Slab City. It starts crimpy, moves into a powerful roof, and then finishes on enjoyable, balancy slab up top. It's a nice long route and varied. I climbed it alongside Shattered Dreams, Goody Two Shoes and some 10d just left of Synchronicity [Gulp Swallow perhaps, but wasn't trad and didn't match the description in the book?]. Anyway, this one was easily the best of the four. Nov 29, 2009

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