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Routes in Slab City (Right)

Chaste but Tasty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Groove Factor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juggernaut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lovely Lady S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pity Committee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pleasure Dome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scrawny, not Brawny S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Utopia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Light S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 999 total, 8/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jan 21, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Scramble to the bottom of the large left-facing flake.

Follow the flake, 3 bolts on the top side of the flake, until it is possible to step right onto the face below the 4th bolt. Don't hang around here too long before committing to a balancy sequence of moves that will allow you to clip the 5th bolt.

After you clip the 5th bolt quickly lieback the vertical seam up to the anchors.

Location

Located at the right side of Slab City.

Protection

6 bolts, double ring anchor

Photos

Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10b
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10b
Did this route a few more times since last post. Definitely lead this route on gear, it's so much more fun that way. It's also way more committing on the "lie back" section on the face on gear instead of clipping the bolts on the far right of it. Bring runners to extend the bottom pieces. Save 2-3 draws for the last section + your anchors. Apr 10, 2014
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10b
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10b
Lead the whole route on gear except clipping the last two bolts since there was no placement to be had. such a good climb. sucks that it was bolted (especially the bottom section). good hand jams with good .75 for first piece Sep 12, 2013
wizard Lee
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10b
wizard Lee   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10b
Loved this route. Only gets 3 stars in the guidebook. I though it was 5 stars. Trad style. In fact you might be able to lead it on gear. Beta spoiler: near the top, don't go right into the corner where there is a chalked hold. Stay on the face otherwise you'll miss a great crux move. Mar 29, 2012
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
 
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
 
If you like liebacking try the one next door Pity Committee for more excitement. Jun 29, 2009
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b/c
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10b/c
The moves to the 5th bolt are a bit scary since you're a ways above #4. I think this route is top notch, and a rare liebacking gem at the quarry. Jun 29, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
Interesting and sometimes strenuous lie-backing up the left side of the huge flake lead the the crux just past the 4th bolt. There are several ways to do this - climb directly above the bolt and do a balancy mantel or stay left and utilize the "bird perch" block and the crack before stemming out right above the bolt. The route concludes with a classic lieback flake on a vertical wall.

It's possible to extend this route by clipping the anchor and then heading up and left, via three more bolts, to join the anchors for Pity Committee (5.11a); the difficulty is still the same. Jan 22, 2007