Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
International
> Australia
> Victoria
> Mt Arapiles
> (7) Watchtower…
> Watchtower Faces
Auto Da Fe
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 3.8 from 12
votes
Routes in The Watchtower Faces
|
|
Arachnus T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Auto Da Fe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
|
Brolga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Gecko T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Hot Flap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Mr. Chicken T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
|
|
Skink T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Watchtower Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
|
|
Watchtower Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Miller & Carrigan - 1982 |
| Page Views: | 2,452 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jan 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
On the right Watchtower Face. The classic trifecta of slab climbs at Arapiles are Brolga (5.8), Auto Da Fe (5.10d/5.11a), and Tjuringa (5.12). Auto Da Fe is quite simply brilliant. It is also a testpiece. While I was at the Pines a European climber fell from the crux and broke his ankle, and apparently this is a common occurance. Begin at a clean streak of rock 25' right of Watchtower Crack. There is a circular hole ten feet off the ground which is the first hold of the climb. The crux might actually be moving off of this hold!
P1: Jump for the hole and attempt to mantle up past it. I begrudgingly blame my partner for ruining my onsight by breaking out in hysterical (and contagious) laughter while I was attempting to do this move. At least the antics of leaping for the hold and slapping your entire body against the rock in the process helps to break the ice on this unnerving climb. Continue up to a ledge with bolts, placing Aliens and the like in horizontals. 75', 5.10d.
P2: Climb straight up through a small roof and continue up the clean streak through a bulge just above a delicate flake. Passing this section is the mental and technical crux. Continue up and stretch the rope out to the top of the wall. 200', 5.10d.
P1: Jump for the hole and attempt to mantle up past it. I begrudgingly blame my partner for ruining my onsight by breaking out in hysterical (and contagious) laughter while I was attempting to do this move. At least the antics of leaping for the hold and slapping your entire body against the rock in the process helps to break the ice on this unnerving climb. Continue up to a ledge with bolts, placing Aliens and the like in horizontals. 75', 5.10d.
P2: Climb straight up through a small roof and continue up the clean streak through a bulge just above a delicate flake. Passing this section is the mental and technical crux. Continue up and stretch the rope out to the top of the wall. 200', 5.10d.
Photos
- No Photos -
4 Comments