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Call the Copps

WI3 M3 R, Mixed, Ice, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: Maybe J. Copp and B. Collett 1/20/07
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Flatirons

Description

Though not as continuous as the other Flatirons routes, this has one superb pitch on it. Your goal is the gully that lies between the Pullman Car and the South Block on the Second Flatiron. Start at the Gutter bouldering area and climb easy mixed ground towards said gully. The gully itself currently has a vein of ice in the back of it that is a couple of feet wide and 1-3 inches thick for approximately 50m. At the top of this ribbon of ice you'll find a nice ledge to belay from. Easy mixed climbing will take you to the into a bit of a bowl under the ridge. If you climb up the right side of the bowl, you'll find yourself a brief scramble away from the trail.

Location

Start at the Gutter on the south side of the Second Flatiron.

Protection

Some rock gear perhaps. A couple of stubbies could be placed.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing up to the sweet pitch. Photo by J. Copp.
[Hide Photo] Climbing up to the sweet pitch. Photo by J. Copp.
The sweet pitch. It gets pretty fat at the top. Photo by J. Copp.
[Hide Photo] The sweet pitch. It gets pretty fat at the top. Photo by J. Copp.
Looking up the second pitch of CTC.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the second pitch of CTC.
Feb. 2020. Dan leading thin ice on left hand variation of the main gully.
[Hide Photo] Feb. 2020. Dan leading thin ice on left hand variation of the main gully.
The sweet ice pitch with a little snow on top 1/23/07.
[Hide Photo] The sweet ice pitch with a little snow on top 1/23/07.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Killgore
boulder, co
[Hide Comment] Doug Shepherd and I climbed some variations to reach the upper flow yesterday morning. Think we started well left of the original start on easy ice and rock scrambling. Short downclimb led to regular start, which was baking in the sun. Moved right two major corner systems, and found a fine pitch of moderate ice and mixed. Pitch is shaded by long RFC, so should fare better than regular start on sunny days. After first step, protection is good with nuts and cams to 2". After corner, move left and up snow to high trees (50m). 2nd pitch climbed another short shady RFC, before moving left through notch. Easy downclimb and traverse led to upper flow. Unfortunately, upper flow is rotten and detached. Maybe some more melt freeze will shape it up. One can easily rappel at the top of the long RFC, or the base of the upper runnel. Jan 5, 2010
Jack Barker
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I think this route is essentially "Dodge the block." The Gutter looks exactly the same. I should have done a scouting mission before going for this with 2 feet of snow. I believe my party did a left start variation, M3ish/WI3, essentially the gully to the left of The Gutter. We did one pitch and then traversed over to the standard CTC line for the second pitch. Made it up to the large tree, and then we ran out of time. The gully by the Pullman Block was covered in deep snow. Got our money pitch to the left of the main gully. I would be interested to know if anyone has done this variation. I don't think it's Jason's variation, but I could be mistaken. Apr 10, 2020