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Routes in Flatirons

Call the Copps WI3 M3 R
Copp Out, The T WI3 M4
East Face Gully aka Silk Road WI3 M5 R
East Face Left Side aka Pink Dreams WI3 M5 R
Fourth Flatiron East Face AKA The Watercourse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b M4 R
Mous-Ka-Tears T WI4- PG13
Off The Hook T M5 R
Type: Mixed, Ice, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Maybe J. Copp and B. Collett 1/20/07
Page Views: 5,591 total, 42/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jan 20, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Though not as continuous as the other Flatirons routes, this has one superb pitch on it. Your goal is the gully that lies between the Pullman Car and the South Block on the Second Flatiron. Start at the Gutter bouldering area and climb easy mixed ground towards said gully. The gully itself currently has a vein of ice in the back of it that is a couple of feet wide and 1-3 inches thick for approximately 50m. At the top of this ribbon of ice you'll find a nice ledge to belay from. Easy mixed climbing will take you to the into a bit of a bowl under the ridge. If you climb up the right side of the bowl, you'll find yourself a brief scramble away from the trail.

Location

Start at the Gutter on the south side of the Second Flatiron.

Protection

Some rock gear perhaps. A couple of stubbies could be placed.

Photos

Jason Killgore
boulder, co
Jason Killgore   boulder, co
Doug Shepherd and I climbed some variations to reach the upper flow yesterday morning. Think we started well left of the original start on easy ice and rock scrambling. Short downclimb led to regular start, which was baking in the sun. Moved right two major corner systems, and found a fine pitch of moderate ice and mixed. Pitch is shaded by long RFC, so should fare better than regular start on sunny days. After first step, protection is good with nuts and cams to 2". After corner, move left and up snow to high trees (50m). 2nd pitch climbed another short shady RFC, before moving left through notch. Easy downclimb and traverse led to upper flow. Unfortunately, upper flow is rotten and detached. Maybe some more melt freeze will shape it up. One can easily rappel at the top of the long RFC, or the base of the upper runnel. Jan 5, 2010