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Routes in k. Oops Wall

Commencement TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crash Dummy Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Dead Battery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exuberance TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Floops T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Looper T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Oops T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pencil & Johnny's Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Santa's Escape TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Stacked T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ten AM Special TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: TR, 65 ft
FA: FRA: Taino Grosjean
Page Views: 4,892 total · 34/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: JSH

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Description

Why is it called "Santa's Escape"? Because it's a CHIMNEY!

You can get some absolutely fantastic pictures from inside the chimney, looking out; walk around the detached block, keeping it on your left - this will bring you over to the Cuckoo's Nest/Psycho Wall areas, and the other entrance to the chimney. Walk to the end of it, and you can see/take pictures of the climber on Santa's Escape.

Location

Walk into chimney approx 15 feet, just past the first large boulder. Climb straight up to top. Both sides of the chimney are on. Easy walk-off.

Protection

There is no protection whatsoever on this route; if you fall, and your body doesn't jam to stop you, you're gonna fall a long way. TR is the best option. All gear anchor, using long static line to reach the cracks on top. Use a rope bag to protect the anchor legs.

Photos

Rockanice
New York
Rockanice   New York
Hi Taino,

Curt Dempster and I led a route in 2000 ( Conor's Corridor 5.5 ) starting approximately where you describe, but must be a little different as we had pro. After some stemming up about ten to fifteen feet you get your first pro ( the entrance fee ! ) Then G-PG thereafter with maybe four or five good placements along the way to top out. Very unique climbing with pro on both walls after the entrance fee is paid ! Will look for your gearless 5.7 line, lot's of potential in there. Good job. Jun 25, 2013
Cody Robinson
Chattanooga, TN
 
Cody Robinson   Chattanooga, TN
 
Great route, the chimney has several fun lines and a top rope is easy to set up. Nov 10, 2013

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