Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,878 total · 13/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Pencil and Johnny were lovers... and oh, Lordie, how they could love...

Oops - sorry, wrong site. And song, for that matter. *ahem*

Location

Climb the arete across the chimney mouth from Commencement (the left-most arete of the tall, vertical face on the right wall that's on the gigantic detached block). Easy walk-off.

Protection

Spicy to lead; must traverse right half-way up to place gear, or risk a potential ground fall. Bolted anchor at the top - use directional to run this route on TR.

Photos

nancyjo Joseph
Nantmeal Village, Pennsylvania
 
nancyjo Joseph   Nantmeal Village, Pennsylvania
 
The guidebook simply gives this a PG protection rating. I continued up without moving right for gear, figuring there would be gear somewhere since it is rated PG. If you stick to the route you get two pieces of good gear about 1/4 of the way up, then again when you are just about at the top of the climb. Definitely X. There is a point just a bit above your first two pieces where you could easily move right to place gear, after which moving right would be at least as dicey as continuing up the arĂȘte. Otherwise a fun, two star climb. Sep 19, 2017