[Hide Comment] its pretty important to add that even if you are a 5.10 climber the moves to acess the crack are mandatory 5.7 unprotected, there is however a small slot on the traverse ledge that can take a small tri
cam in a horizontal but use caution as even if you do fall above that piece you are looking at a ledge fall. Jun 18, 2007

[Hide Comment] This crack is a lot harder than it looks from the ground. With sharp fingerlocks, long reaches and a run out start this climb really makes you work for it. Sep 5, 2008

[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! bring a purple metolius for the first piece and a green alien for a second bomber piece.

don't fondle ethereal crack on your way down! Aug 10, 2009

[Hide Comment] Yeah, don't blow those slab moves whatever you do. The gear probably won't help until you get that first finger lock and can set a bomber piece there. The 5.7 slab moves are all there, though, so don't stress, just be careful. Fantastic pitch--I could do it every day and be happy. Aug 10, 2009

[Hide Comment] This is no giveaway .10a! Like the others have said, be very careful traversing right to the start of the crack---it's just a move or two, and not very hard, but you would not want to blow it. For some reason (perhaps it's the overhanging canopy of trees) but this climb always seems greasy to me. If it's 80 and muggy, I'd stay away---but this climb is perfect for one of those crisp October afternoons! May 14, 2014

[Hide Comment] Heading up the ramp, there's a spot at foot level and to the left of the climb where a 0.5 fits nicely. I think it would keep you from decking, but still a savage swing. After that, oh, it's a beautiful route. Jun 9, 2014