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Routes in Fortress Wall

Dual Reality T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of Pleiades T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kachina T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Luxor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nimbasus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Renaissance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Verachocha T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: KC Baum and Bob Faller, 5/14/1988
Page Views: 886 total, 7/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1: Climb up the nice hand crack through a small bulge at 5.8+ until you gain a nice ledge and belay.

P2: Exit the belay on the right, moving up a right-leaning hand crack leading to a small roof. Pass the roof on the right and climb through a bulge using flairing finger moves (crux). Continue up a nice crack in in dike rock then continue to the top via easy class 5.

Location

Start on the other side of the detached pillar from Dual Reality in a hand crack.

Protection

Standard trad rack: small pieces to large hand pieces.
The first pitch is no giveaway, tricky moves higher up. Good rock all the way. Pitch 2 has great jamming and a pumpy lie back though the short crux. Excellent route! Oct 18, 2015
Descent beta: there is a rappel station high and right in the dike rock (after the 2nd pitch crux). 35m rappel, so a single 70m just makes it. Don't take any chances, remember to put stopper knots in the end of your rope. My 70m might be longer than yours. Oct 18, 2015
First time I did this I thought I was having an off day - the next time I decided it was an off climb. The crux (fixed nut) is pretty burly and not particularly pleasant. First pitch is OK though. We were looking at a traverse left from the belay to Dual Reality above the bolt - that might make a nice route that stays below 5.10. Mar 22, 2009