PRINT: Rock Climb Sac's Fifth Avenue, The Gunks

Sac's Fifth Avenue

5.11c X, TR, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 13 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > j. Scrotum Pole/Drive…

Description

Like the real Sacs Fifth Avenue, this one doesn't come cheap. I've only seen one person actually complete this one; he confirmed the grade in the guidebook at 5.11a/b. There are, apparently, two different ways to do it; neither one is easier. It's a nice gauge in that each move is progressively harder; you can judge your progress by how high you get.

Location

Climb the blank, arching face to the right of Arete I. Stay off both aretes - climb the face only. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain, from the top.

Protection

There is absolutely no protection whatsoever on this route. Top rope only. Bolted TR anchor.

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Fifth Avenue

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AWinters
NH

5.11 X

11a/b seems sandbagged if you stay off the aretes, unless a hold broke. I managed to onsight but used the right arete for one move, still felt like hard .11 Nov 24, 2010

David Pfurr
Mt. Shasta, CA

Was recently on this--and did find a way up it without using either arete--but it was not straight up the middle as the topo-shot suggests. I did note a brown scar about 3/4-height that made me wonder if a hold broke off there. I would confirm the grade as given. It is at least a hard 5.10. Mar 26, 2012

Elan T

5.11c/d X

Looks like a hold broke off, upping the grade on this to an 11 c/d some friend who were trying said possibly 12a. Stout route, and once you get the move, it's a blast to climb! May 19, 2014

take TAKE
Tempe, AZ

I was on this in September, and if it's 11- then Psyche Out is 10-. I think a hold must have broken in the upper half, I couldn't even visualize a sequence to finish the thing out without the aretes. Jan 13, 2015